Red Pepper Serves Up Reliable Indian Cuisine

Dining at the newly-opened Red Pepper restaurant in Scotch Plains offers two very different experiences, depending on what time of day you visit.

Run by new management in the space that used to be Spice Grill, Red Pepper serves “exotic Indian cuisine” and has already attracted a brisk lunch crowd due to its very affordable $7.95 lunch buffet. The buffet offerings are extensive—usually ten or more daily specials.

The lunch line-up, when I visited, included several traditional dishes: Chhole Saag (spinach and Indian chickpeas cooked in spices), Yellow Daal Tarka (yellow lentils cooked with onions, tomatoes, and ginger), Chicken Tikka Masala (chicken roasted in a Tandoor clay oven with a creamy sauce of tomatoes and spices), Dahi Bhalla (lentil ball dipped in yogurt), Kaju Roll (fried potato roll), Rice Pulao (rice cooked with peas and cumin), Vegetable Muglai, Non-Vegetarian Kofta Kadai (meat cooked with onions, peppers, tomatoes, ginger, and garlic), Haryali Kabob (chicken marinated in a mint sauce and grilled), and for dessert, Gulab Jamun (dough made with milk and honey, topped with a thick syrup) and Fruit Custard (a milk-based dessert with fresh and dried fruits).

Overall, I found the food to be about average for this type of set-up. The Chicken Tikka Masala was spot on, and I was pleasantly surprised by the kabob which was an unappetizing, odd shade of green but had a subtle mint flavor and wasn’t dry at all, considering it was a grilled meat. However, the Chhole Saag was a little too thin in consistency and the Kaju Roll wasn’t much to speak of. The Non-Vegetarian Kofta Kadi was delicious, although it would have been nice if the sign specified what kind of meat (lamb or goat) the dish included. The Gulab Jamun was very sweet (they’re not kidding about the thick syrup) and a true representation of the dish.

Though there were a few bright spots in Red Pepper’s buffet, we were not offered and had to ask for Naan (flat, Indian bread included with the meal). Management also keeps the food levels low in each serving tray and systematically uses small bowls to refill the buffet. What this means for the diner is a first impression of an empty buffet and a short wait for the trays to be refilled—especially if you’re the fourth or fifth person on line. The up side of waiting is knowing that the food is definitely fresh.

Red Pepper shines at dinnertime, though, especially if you bring children. At a recent visit the place was fairly empty, which meant we had the waiters’ undivided attention. The service was excellent. Everyone was eager to discuss portion sizes, spice levels, and the types of food on the menu. Our water glasses were always full, our plates were changed between courses, and the servers couldn’t wait to engage with the kids at our table (who love spicy foods) and dared them to test their taste buds with an extra-spicy sauce.

Our meal began with complimentary Papadum, light crisps that can be dunked into one of three traditional condiments: red tamarind, mint, and onion chutneys. We received two kinds of Papadum: plain and spicy. For starters, we ordered Mango Lassis ($2.95, a thick, mango shake) and Vegetable Samosas (Chat, $3.95). While the drinks were a hit with the kids, I would have preferred them to be blended a bit more. However, the Samosas (crispy turnovers filled with mildly spiced potatoes and peas) were delectable, especially served with the sweet, red dipping sauce.

There are several categories of main courses on the menu ($8.95 to $14.95), including vegetable curries, Tandoori (food cooked over charcoal in a Tandoor), Murg Musulam chicken specialties, Biryani (meat/shrimp cooked in slow steamed basmati rice), goat, seafood, and lamb dishes, and several types of Pulao (rice pilaf) and Indian breads. There is also a somewhat confusing “Indo Chinese Fusion” and “Rice and Noodles” section that seems out of place.

Our picks were Chicken Biryani ($11.95), Shrimp Korma ($14.95), Lamb Vindaloo ($12.95), which were served in authentic copper bowls, and Garlic Naan ($3.50). All were well-prepared and better than Red Pepper's buffet. The shrimps were cooked in a creamy yellow sauce of blended nuts, and the lamb had an extra-spicy kick to it and a somewhat oily, tangy tomato-base. The naan was teardrop-shaped, Punjabi style white bread baked in a Tandoor with garlic — perfect for mopping up all the sauces. Far and away, though, the stand-out was the Chicken Biryani, an amazing infusion of chicken, cashews, red and green bell peppers, onions, slivered almonds, cilantro, and roasted tomatoes wedges that burst open in your mouth. The dish is served with Raita, a cucumber yogurt dip, to cool the spices and balance out the flavors. If you haven’t had Chicken Biryani yet, you should stop reading and go there now.

We had ordered all of the dishes “medium spicy” except for the Vindaloo which was “hot,” and while they all had a moderate amount of heat, I found the spice level to be far less than what’s customary for Indian cuisine. This is surprising, given the restaurant's name. Die-hard Indian foodies might want to ramp up the fire levels when ordering.

Stuffed to the gills, we somehow made room for Kheer ($3.50), Basmati rice pudding served with almonds and pistachio. I found the Kheer a bit runny, with the rice falling to the bottom of the dish. Next time, I will forgo it for the much more interesting sounding Kulfi and Malai Kulfi ($3.50), homemade Indian ice cream with nuts, rose water, and pistachio.

New management runs Red Pepper, but much of the décor remains from the previous tenant and leaves a lot to be desired. New Indian artwork adorns the old, mint-colored walls, but the same ‘70s style glass light fixtures still hang from the ceiling and are kept low or off. The owners have covered the front windows with red and green draperies, obscuring the view of the parking lot and Route 22. Unfortunately, the window treatments also cut out most of the natural light, making it quite dark inside. And what possessed management to string Christmas lights on the plants during June? The bathroom is clean, but could stand to be spruced up to repair the visible holes in the drywall. In short, this place is screaming for a makeover.

After dinner, our server told us that Red Pepper has a web site with printable coupons. While this wasn’t the most original, best, or most elegant Indian restaurant I’ve ever been to, Red Pepper serves reliable, tasty food—and is a solid dining option for our small town. I’ll definitely be printing out those coupons and ordering up another Chicken Biryani dinner soon.

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Red Pepper Restaurant

2520 Route 22 East, Scotch Plains

908-233-5511 / 908-233-3298

www.redpepperindiancuisine.com

BYO, Take-out and catering available

MasterCard, Visa, American Express

Open 7 days a week

Lunch Buffet: Monday – Friday, 11:30 a.m. – 2:30 p.m.; Saturday, Sunday, noon – 3 p.m.; Dinner: Monday – Thursday, Sunday, 5 p.m. – 10 p.m.; Friday, Saturday, 5 p.m. – 10:30 p.m.