Business & Tech
Antonella's Has Time-Tested Recipes from a Culture Well-Known for Food
Carlo and Antonella Canziani run a BYOB establishment serving Northern Italian cuisine.
On a Sunday afternoon, I sit at a corner table by the window of an unpretentious restaurant serving authentic northern Italian cuisine. On the walls hang Venetian masks and a collection of Venetian art. Across from me, Carlo Canziani sits unassumingly, chatting about life in Palm Beach as the chef for a family residing adjacent to Trump’s Mar-a-Lago. Antonella, Carlo’s wife of 27 years and their restaurant’s namesake, brings me a cappuccino and joins us with a cup of coffee. During our conversation, which spans nearly their entire marriage, I develop more than a glimpse of the couple’s relationship and their credentials as restaurateurs.
Carlo’s culinary experience originated in Venice, where summer months were so hectic he hardly had time to spend with his young family. While still in Venice, Carlo was recommended to a family in Palm Beach. For five consecutive years, he created and prepared multi-course meals for the family’s month-long holiday festivities, including their New Year’s bash. The Canzianis then opened their own restaurant in Venice but eventually moved to the United States. After several restaurant gigs throughout New York and New Jersey, including Casa Bella in Denville, the couple opened Antonella’s.
Antonella’s, located on Village Plaza, began as a modest 10-table establishment, where reservations were often difficult to come by. The restaurant has since expanded into the adjacent space and has a capacity of approximately 86 seats. Forgoing fancy tables and chairs, Carlo and Antonella wanted to bring a bit of Venice to their diners. Carlo explains that a culinary experience should represent the culture from which it originated. He aims to bring out the taste of every ingredient, so they remain recognizable in the dish. He firmly believes in proper refrigeration and minimizing freezer use. Antonella’s meets those objectives.
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During our dinner, we were warmly greeted with a “Buona Sera” by Antonella. In her endearing Italian accent, Antonella guided us through the specials and patiently answered our seemingly endless questions. She wasn’t the only one attending to us. The wait staff was also diligent and friendly, and Carlo (before I formally met him) emerged from the kitchen to observe the diners. There were couples dining as well as families with young children and groups of friends. The atmosphere was relaxed and the noise level low.
In addition to the bruschetta brought to our table and the perfectly crusty warm bread, we ordered the Sardelle in Saor ($8.95)—sardine fillets marinated with onions, vinegar, raisins and pine nuts—as well as the Cesar salad ($6.95) to start. The Venetian-style sardines were a unique experience that I highly recommend, as the vinegary marinade’s hint of sweetness was unforgettable. The salad’s dressing tasted fresh, not too thickly creamed, and allowed the crispness of the Romaine lettuce to triumph.
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Next we tried the Zuppa di Pesce Posillipo ($23.95)—shrimps, clams, mussels, scallops, calamari and tilapia stewed in tomato sauce. Yes, there is a bit of southern Italy on the menu. Living up to Venetian expectations, the seafood was well-prepared, and I especially enjoyed the tilapia. The tomato sauce was not overbearing and allowed the seafood to flaunt the freshness of the restaurant’s offerings. I also took Antonella up on her favorite dish—shrimps and scallops in white truffle sauce. It was delectable and did not disappoint. Both entrees were served with polenta—which is simply cornmeal and a staple throughout much of Northern Italy, but a wonderfully authentic accompaniment.
For dessert, we had the Cannoli and the Chocolate Crème Brulee, Antonella’s creation. The Crème Brulee had a similar consistency to mousse but was still quite unique. The desserts were delightful, as was the cappuccino.
Antonella’s is a dine-in or take-home establishment and is family-friendly. After all, the Canzianis recently welcomed their first grandchild, and the wait staff is family. You will need to bring your own wine.
