Giorgio’s Returns After a 4-Year Hiatus

They say you can never come home again, but that's exactly what Giorgio's Ristorante, a popular South Orange old-timer, has done. The Italian restaurant had a strong 16-year business on Vose Avenue before renting out the space to Voro in 2005. After husband-and-wife owners Janet Joseph and chef Giorgio finished raising their family, they returned to the restaurant business in late October in the same exact location where they started it all two decades ago.

Today's Giorgio's is a cozy, romantic little gem of a restaurant. Upon crossing the threshold of the charming two-story converted house, one begins to fall under its spell immediately. Softly lit gold chandeliers offer a gentle glow to each linen-covered table; padded tapestry chairs invite diners to settle in for a long meal; and heavy, ornate draperies keep the cold weather at bay while soft, instrumental music filters down. Service is attentive, intimate and gracious with some elements of fine dining, white-glove execution (minus the white gloves) and the heart of a small-town, independent restaurateur.

The menu of the BYO features traditional Italian fare. Appetizers include shrimp cocktail ($9.95), zuppa di clams (red or white, $9.95), mussels provincale ($8.95) and filet mignon ($9.95). Giorgio's kitchen also fires up several pastas, such as linguine and clam sauce (red or white, $15.95), and chicken and seafood dishes, such as Chicken Contadina ($16.95), Chicken Palpaieze ($16.95), Salmon Capri ($19.95), blackened tilapia ($19.95) and Shrimp Sugoloso ($19.95). There are a few grill items available as well, including a rib eye ($22.95) and a rack of lamb ($23.95).

I sought refuge at Giorgio's one blustery fall evening and sampled the Penne alla Giorgio's, which the kitchen was kind enough to split into two large appetizer portions. The dish's highlights were many. The penne was al dente, and the bright, large leaves of fresh spinach were flash-fried and stood up nicely against the sun-dried tomatoes and garlic broth. The server was also quick to offer a fresh grating of parmesan cheese to top the pasta off.

The meal progressed well with two main courses. Several nice, fat shrimp crowned a plate of fettucini in the spicy, chunky, rustic, robust tomato sauce of Giorgio's Shrimp Fra Diavolo ($19.95), and there was a terrific, moderate-but-definite level of heat running through all the components of the dish -- the flavor sum of which was greater than its parts. The restaurant's Veal Principesa ($18.95) was not as successfully executed, although it certainly fell within the range of acceptable. The dish included several scallops of veal pounded thin and layered with prosciutto and cheese, as well as a handful of partially wilted asparagus, a side of roasted potatoes, and a lovely vegetable medley. The chef did not skimp on product. There was a lot of everything, including the hearty sauce, which may have contributed to the plate's downfall.

Desserts ($3-5) range from cannoli to mango or chocolate mousse to ricotta cheesecake. There are also ice creams and gelatos available. I found the tiramisu to be slightly unbalanced, with a thick topping of cream, a thin layer of ladyfingers, and not enough of the truly delicious caramel sauce that decorated the plate. Still, it was a sweet finish to a satisfying meal.

The restaurant is fairly large, with seating available in two different rooms, a buffet area for private parties, and a coffee bar. It's clear that Giorgio's Ristorante is going after a somewhat refined clientele, both in its presentation and price structure (which comes across as fair given the upscale setting), and I have to admit the result is a winning combination. While the food rates slightly better than average and can reach a few even higher notes from time to time, it's the ambiance and personal touches that make Giorgio's stand out from the many, many other Italian options in New Jersey.

Patrons might not flock there every day, but for those special occasions, date nights, or an Italian treat, Giorgio's doors have reopened... and South Orange is happy to welcome them home.

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Giorgio's Ristorante

52 Vose Ave., South Orange

973-762-4440

Hours of Operation:

Lunch: Tuesday through Friday, noon to 2:30 p.m.

Dinner: Tuesday through Friday, 5 to 10 p.m.

Dinner: Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m., and Sunday 4 to 9 p.m.

BYO. Catering available.

All major credit cards accepted.