Review: Quarter-Century-Old Cryan's Still Delivers

Located on First Street, this family-owned and operated Irish pub has been serving traditional favorites like the Reuben, Shepherd's Pie and Corned Beef and Cabbage for more than 25 years. Shamrocks, Irish flags, memorabilia, photos and paintings adorn the walls in the family-friendly dining room; Guiness posters and Irish street signs add to the atmosphere around the bar, which is a well-known hangout for local politicos.

From the start, Cryan's lives up to expectations. The bread basket is a preview of what's to come: lots of options, all delicious. It's stuffed with dinner rolls, breadsticks, crackers and, best of all, Cryan's homemade Irish Soda Bread. The Irish Soda Bread is very dense—you might want to save it for dessert!

In addition to a large menu, Cryan's offers daily specials. The best of the week has to be Sunday's Corned Beef and Cabbage, complete with boiled potatoes. The diced cabbage is as sweet as can be, while the meat is incredibly lean. My mom, who has been known to cut off even the slightest traces of fat everywhere we go, said the corned beef was the leanest she's ever seen at a restaurant. "Absolutely perfect. I mean, it's seriously just delicious," was all she could say after savoring this Sunday night specialty. Needless to say, she was reluctant to share even a taste.

The Reuben garnered a similar response from my sister, as she seemed to enjoy every bite. She said the corned beef made the meal, as "it was fabulous." Another classic, the Shepherd's Pie, certainly doesn't disappoint. A mild mixture of peas, carrots and ground beef baked under crusted mashed potatoes and topped with gravy, it was a large, filling portion. Wash it down with a Guinness and it feels like you're in the heart of Dublin.

Cryan's excellence isn't limited to Irish fare. The menu offers a surprising number of other options, such as Broiled Sea Scallops, Maryland Crab Cakes, Jack Daniel's Chicken Salad, Chicken Murphy, BBQ Ribs, Cryan's Burger, Penne Shrimp Vodka, Turkey Burgers and more. There's a full page of appetizers, soups and salads, as well as a children's menu. My aunt raved about her Mandarin Sesame Chicken—two chicken breasts in a light, sweet Kahlua sauce. Served with fried rice and steamed vegetables, the dish is topped with pistachios and mandarin oranges. The grilled vegetable wrap is a good choice if you aren't looking for a huge meal. It's dressed in a delicious balsamic vinaigrette and served with crispy steak fries.

All of our entrees came with a trip to the soup and salad bar. The soup specials change daily, and I was happy to find that Sunday's special was lentil. Not too watery or too thick, it was a mild blend of lentils and vegetables. I couldn't get enough—it's one of the best I've tasted at a restaurant. The other option was Cream of Mushroom, "another treat for the palette," according to my mom. "Oh, it was so good!" she says in retrospect.

After thoroughly enjoying our Irish Soda Bread and hearty dishes, we were too full to tackle dessert. For those looking to top off their meal, the menu offers a range of treats—including the locally famous frozen yogurt station—as well as coffee and tea. It's safe to say, Cryan's deserves its rank among South Orange favorites.