Stony’s: The Top Gun of Burgers & Dogs

You’ve got to love a restaurant that doesn’t try to be all things to all people, that takes a stand, picks just a few things, and cooks them really, really well. That, in a nutshell, is what Stony’s does for burgers and hot dogs—and boy is South Orange all the better for it.

The Sloan Street eatery opened across from the train station at the end of October, and locals are already discovering the place. On some nights, the line snakes out the door, and Stony’s has already run out of take-out menus and resorted to distributing make-shift photocopies—a sure sign that owners Mike Henry and Stony Johnson (who previously owned Stony Hill Creamery) have hit upon a winner.

Stony’s has a subtle aviation theme running through the burger options on their menu, and a single model plane hangs from above. The set-up is simple. Hungry patrons place their orders at the front counter, and they can either take their food to go or grab a seat in one of the restaurant’s two casual, but comfortable dining rooms. Food runners will bring trays to each eat-in customer.

The menu is short and sweet. There are burgers, hot dogs, two chicken sandwiches, a steak sandwich, a salad, fries, drinks, and two desserts. That’s it. The genius of Stony’s lies in the quality of each product. All of the burgers are handmade patties formed from fresh ground beef that has never been frozen. The hot dogs are roasted until they crack, the buns are well-chosen and toasted, and all 17 toppings (including three different kinds of mustard and three varieties of onions) are free.

Stony’s burgers are cooked “medium” only and are available in a double-patty “Bomber Burger” size ($4.79 for plain, $5.29 for cheese or bacon, $5.79 for both), a single-patty “Fighter Burger” size ($3.59 for plain, $3.99 for cheese or bacon, $4.59 for both), and a “Garden Burger” variety ($3.29, veggies and cheese).

I tried the “Fighter” bacon cheeseburger, which was probably the best burger I’ve had for under $5—and I didn’t have to order it from my car or sit in some tacky fast food chain to eat it. The best part about the burger had to be the spot-on meat to bread ratio, the juiciness of the patty, and the thick slab of bacon that clearly had been grilled just minutes before. Could the patty have been bigger? Yes, and it would have been nice if the meat had been cooked a tad less. But these are small grievances that in the bigger picture don’t take away from the fact that Stony’s cooks one fine burger, especially for the price.

Props must be given to the South Orange newcomer as well—if not more—for their truly outstanding hot dogs. Stony’s dogs are utter perfection, and I say that having tasted more ballpark wieners, brats, NYC dirty water dogs, and gourmet versions than I care to admit. Stony’s hot dogs come in two sizes: full “Dogs” ($3.29 for plain, $3.89 for cheese or bacon, $4.29 for both) and half-size “Pups” ($2.29 for plain, $2.89 for cheese or bacon, $3.29 for both).

The "Pups" are the cutest things you’ve ever seen, and they, like their larger versions, have tremendous flavor. The hot dog casing is crispy and virtually bursts apart, rendering a tell-tale char flavor as the robust juices run into the mini toasted club roll. No matter what toppings you put on this dog, you can’t possibly go wrong. If someone served these as a party hors d’oeuvre (as has become the custom for sliders), I would eat 10 of them and not feel one bit bad about clearing the platter. Somebody should start the trend. They are that good.

Stony’s Rib Eye Steak Sandwich ($9.29), is an actual piece of thin steak topped with cheese and grilled onions. The sandwich is long, flat, a bit overcooked, and somewhat greasy, but it, too, is one of those tasty, guilty pleasures. However, at $9.29, your best bet is definitely the burgers and dogs.

Only one side order is served: fries, either sweet potato or regular, in two different sizes ($2.29 and $3.49). The sweet potato fries are excellent—crispy, light, airy, and seemingly greaseless, although definitely not calorie-free. Fountain drinks, milkshakes in two sizes (vanilla, chocolate, coffee, and strawberry, $2.99 or $3.99), and two desserts (extremely decadent cupcakes with butter-cream frosting, $3, and cookies, $1.50) round out the menu.

It’s refreshing to find a place that firmly believes in delivering great taste for equally great value and visibly strives hard to do both. On a recent visit, the management came by to ask what improvements could be made, and I fully respect Stony’s for its laser-like focus on simple foods. A lot of restaurants try to dazzle you with loop-de-loops and pages of daredevil choices, but few will beat Stony’s impressive, initial take-off.

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Stony's

10 Sloan St., South Orange

973-763-3330

Hours of Operation:

Sunday through Thursday, 11am - 10pm

Friday and Saturday, 11am - 11pm

All major credit cards accepted.