Cathay 22 Loses Some of Its Luster

In 1985, Cathay 22 opened on Route 22 to much fanfare. Owner Alice Wang brought in Chef Wang Yijung and a team of chefs all hailing from Beijing for the sole purpose of creating a Chinese restaurant that would serve authentic Szechuan dishes in a state plagued with Americanized Chinese take-outs. And for a long time, Cathay 22 was considered the go-to locale for "real" Chinese cuisine. Twenty-five years later, however, one wonders if the eatery may have rested on its laurels a bit too long.

The melon-colored walls and art prints which were once considered chic now seem dated in the large, two-room space. The tables—which can accommodate couples as well as families of 10—were interestingly absent of one essential element: chopsticks. Though I am Chinese, I was not offered a pair with which to eat their authentic Szechuan food which I found rather disappointing. The whole point of my trip was to have the full experience in a restaurant that claims to be true to its heritage.

Cathay 22's menu does indeed feature a number of traditional Chinese dishes and ingredients. Appetizers include beef tripe (stomach) which is served cold with Ma-La sauce ($7), spicy minced chicken wrapped in lettuce ($8), and taro root turnip patties ($4.50) which are typically served with a sweet hoisin sauce.

Traditional family-style main courses run the gamut from seafood in a deep-fried, noodle basket (shrimp, scallops, and vegetables, $19.95), Sea Dragon in spicy sauce (a whole fish, $22.95), Ma Po tofu cooked with minced beef and vegetables ($10.95), Crazy Beef Szechuan style (sliced flank steak, $16.95), and of course the infamous Peking Duck, which utilizes a single duck across multiple dishes: duck-filled pancake wraps, a soup made from duck bones, and a stir-fry duck dish. Cathay 22 offers one course ($17.95 for a half-order, $33.95 for full) or two course ($36.95) options.

On a recent visit, I sampled the meat dumplings in spicy sauce ($4.50), which were six tiny pork, steamed dumplings doused with garlic in a mild soy sauce blend that carried virtually no heat. The dumplings were bite-sized, and the pork filling was best described as one-note, in both flavor profile and consistency. Perhaps to make up for it, the chefs went overboard and drenched the plate, as small as it was, with garlic. Whatever the reason, it was not an auspicious start.

Much more refined was Cathay 22's half order of Peking Duck. The single course was presented, assembled, and served tableside. With a few deft, well-practiced moves, the server quickly used two spoons to layer a smear of sweet-sticky hoisin sauce, the crispy, lacquered duck skin and meat, and scallion wands on top of a thin, steamed pancake wrapper. A few twists of the wrist, and the pancakes were rolled into four tidy, burrito-style bundles of deliciousness. Cathay 22 does a solid job—both in execution and price. At $17.95, the two-person appetizer is an affordable way to partake in one aspect of the delicacy.

Also commendable is the presentation of the Springfield eatery's Chicken Blossom dish ($14.95). Wang's chefs showcase their impressive knife skills by creating entire flower blossom clusters, petals and all, out of chicken breasts. Bright snow peas, scallions, and water chestnuts are stir-fried with the chicken "blossoms" in a garlic sauce. While props must be given to the kitchen's prep job, I must admit the dish, in my opinion, was not a standout in any other way.

Also somewhat lacking was the Spicy Scallops Beijing style ($17.95), which was paired with sliced carrots and a minced garlic sauce. The large scallops were gritty and did not have a crisp sear on them. With the main element compromised, it was hard to enjoy the dish.

Cathay 22's menu also includes a wine list boasting varietals from France, Italy, Spain, Chile, New Zealand, and the U.S, a variety of vegetarian options, soups, and noodle dishes, including "Velvet Crab Meat Soup" for two ($7), "rice stick" noodles ($8-8.50), chow fun (flat, rice noodles, $8), and pan-fried chow mein noodles ($11-13). The restaurant also features more Chinese-American fare such as crispy orange chicken ($13.95) and a Pu-Pu platter for two ($13).

Does Cathay 22 still do what it set out to 25 years ago? I find that the answer is yes. It does offer a more authentic Chinese culinary experience than a lot of neighboring Americanized Chinese restaurants, although it is no longer unique in its mission. Competition has sprouted up here and there, which makes one wonder whether it's time for Cathay 22 to refocus and perhaps rethink the menu once again. There's definitely authentic talent in its Szechuan kitchen. I just wish their execution was a bit more flawless.

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Cathay 22

124 Rt. 22 West, Springfield
(973) 467-8688

Hours of Operation:

Monday through Thursday, 11:45 am-10 pm
Friday and Saturday, 11:45 am-11 pm
Sunday, 11:45 am-10 pm

Take-out and private party room available.