Ultrasuede: In Search of Halston Wows Tribeca Audiences [VIDEO]

In an era of glamorous, hypnotic excess and mind blowing fashion, music and culture, nothing was as glamorous as Halston; the man who is credited as putting American fashion on the map in an era where only European designers like Chanel were recognized.  In his first venture as a documentarian, Whitney Sudler-Smith explores the depth of Halston’s life and career and the world that swallowed him whole.

From purple leisure suits to driving a trans am, Sudler-Smith set out on an ambitious journey, speaking to fashion legends, entertainment giants, experimental artists, and all who swam in Halston’s inner circle. These figures included Liza Minnelli, Angelica Houston, Diane Von Furstenberg, Andre Leon Talley, and Diane Cleveland, one of the infamous models (also known as “Halstonnettes”) who lighted up the icon’s entourage.

The wealth of research that went into this project is mind boggling. The film is littered with rare images, photos and even sketches chronicling the inner workings of an elusive group that merged the social circles of Andy Warhol and Truman Capote. Film footage of Halston’s runways serves as a perfect representation of a man who according to Ralph Rucci “married luxury with practicality.”

In addition to being one of the pioneers of American high fashion, Holston brought the concept of minimalism to the forefront of the field.  His invention of the shirtwaist dress is the number one selling style of dress of all time and is still worn and mass produced today.

The shining strength of the film is Sudler-Smith’s technique of seamlessly intertwining celebrity interviews with exclusive content. Cut scenes feature classic 70’s commercials and vivid images of teenagers in platforms and sequins desperately waiting for admission into Studio 54.

As the film weaves through the various fabrics, styles and creations worn by the Halstonnettes, it is easy how the man who spent hundreds of thousands of dollars a year on orchids got swept up in the temptation of licensing; selling the rights of his name in order to have the Halston brand appear on everything from suitcases to carpeting.

 Halston’s decision to enter the world of licensing was ultimately the move that ended his career. After a failed deal with J.C. Penny, Halston was ostracized; the industry saw him as has-been that committed professional suicide, taking a product known for sophistication and luxury and throwing it on the floor of department stores.

At the end of the film, Whitney Sudler-Smith notes that he “went looking for 70s glamour and found an artist, friend, and true American original.”

Although the film touches on the dangers of excess that engulfed so many during this era, Sudler-Smith never goes back on his commitment to “pay respect to this hallowed figure.” The director tells the truth without defaming Halston’s character.

“This is not a cautionary tale, this is Halston’s tale… you can’t be tragic without greatness,” Sudler-Smith stated.  He went on to reflect on the completion of the film.

“We found more than we ever anticipated. This was an iconic American who represented fashion and disco in every way.”

Whitney Sudler-Smith spoke to Patch after the film, remarking on the experience of touring the nation with Tribeca. He also noted that this will be his last documentary.

“Taking the film on the road with Tribeca is a great way to get the buzz out and bring Ultrasuede to a theater where people may not be able to see these types of films. Tribeca has been so supportive by taking chances on these smaller films,” Sudler-Smith said.

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