The March 29th, 1976 cover of The New Yorker depicted Saul Steinberg’s iconic “View of the World from Ninth Avenue.” For those over napping folk, unfamiliar with this highly recognizable drawing, Steinberg shows New York City’s western view of the world from Manhattan’s Ninth Avenue. New York City’s westside occupies more than half of the magazine cover drawing. (New) Jersey is a mere elongated sliver, while some American cities simply dot the rest of the map. Beyond the Pacific Ocean lies China, Japan and Russia, lined up horizontally resembling flattened rocks. Where is Europe? Are New Yorkers self-focused? Perhaps this is a rhetorical question…perhaps…
How would Saul Steinberg paint the East End of Long Island? Would he look eastward or westward? Where would the North and South Forks stack up? Would Gardiner’s and Shelter Islands even make it on the map? Plum? Sorry Block Island. Would the Hamptons replace Manhattan’s prominence in his hypothetical “View of the World from The Shinnecock Canal?” Are Hamptonites egoistic?
I have lived on the East End for over a decade and once thought Long Island “ended” at East Hampton. What could be so important east of this wonderful mecca? Of course there’s Amagansett and Montauk and that scrubby Pine stretch in between. Even some jaw dropping ocean vistas along the way. But it takes awhile to get there. And I’ve already seen the Montauk Lighthouse with out-of-town guests numerous times. Ok, I know this is absolute nonsense. Once I was only a weekend commuter to the Hamptons, and there was very little time to explore further eastward. Well I’m here to shout out “Eastward Ho!” It’s time to venture east to Montauk. And if it’s real, authentic Mexican food you crave, La Brisa has arrived.
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La Brisa landed on Montauk’s shores last year. But I somehow missed this memo and have been conditioned to head east (of East Hampton) less frequently – mostly to swim at Gurney’s off season when Route 27 is devoid of traffic. (The new Gurney’s pool by the way is spectacular.) Stephanie, one of the friendly, engaging and knowledgeable managers indicated, “We don’t advertise by choice. It is mostly word of mouth.” Notwithstanding, La Brisa has caught on fast. At the recent Edible East End event hosted at La Brisa, Editor Brian Halweil exclaimed La Brisa sits at the current terminus of the “taco trail.” Further west, Estia’s Little Kitchen and La Fondita complete the chipotle chain line; the veritable “taco trail” for those in search of fresh, locally sourced, authentic and wholesome Mexican fare.
You won’t find ooey gooey Americanized Tex-Mex food at Yucatan inspired La Brisa. Melted mounds of Monterrey Jack and Cheddar cascading down your oversized Chimichanga platter in avalanche form (which do have their place occasionally, I confess) are represented elsewhere. La Brisa epitomizes the authentic neighborhood Mexican taqueria marketplace according to Carlos a restaurant manager. “We are hospitable,” stated Carlos, and they are! This is a casual, friendly, feel good place with feel good and delicious food. Wear your flip flops. The focus is fresh fish sourced locally, though delicious steak, chicken and vegetarian offerings are also served. Tortillas are made fresh daily beginning at 4AM!
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For appetizers, I sampled the Mexican Corn on the Cob, Guacamole and Local Fluke Ceviche. For the event, the corn on the cob was served in Dixie-like cups topped with lime and queso. The corn is sweet; each niblet plunged in butter (so it seemed) before service. It’s hard to ruin fresh guacamole and La Brisa expertly prepares guac goodness daily alongside homemade tortilla chips. Piles of shiny green avocado orbs sit in waiting, behind the front glass case before their sacrifice. The Ceviche screams fresh fish with a squeeze of citrus. Appetizers range between $4.95 and $16.95.
Starters deserve special drink pairing, named “Cocteles” at La Brisa. Most fresh pressed juice drinks run $12.95. The Paloma and Spiked Sandia are outstanding. The Paloma is described as “Mexico’s favorite cocktail, Tequila, fresh grapefruit juice & lime.” The Spiked Sandia could not be more refreshing. The frosted pink drink arrives icy cold, with watermelon agua fresco & Tequila and a VERY large watermelon wedge. Yes, Tequila is poured in most bar drinks. The cheerful bartender’s beaming smile and generous pour will glaze your eyes. These drinks will buzz you. Be aware! The bar is open until 4AM on weekends; the kitchen shuts down at 11PM.
3 tacos complete each La Brisa Tacos order. The Seared Local Fluke ($15.49) and Crispy Local Tile Fish ($14.95) are created with simple ingredients, yet flavor profiles are complex. The Tile Fish is marinated in mustard, dropped in Negra Modelo beer batter, quickly fried (in Canola Oil) and topped with a crunchy cabbage slaw and chipotle mayo. Deliciously sweet and spicy Chef-prepared sauces fill squeeze bottles on every table and are also available for purchase. Chipotle Hibiscus sauce complements the Tile Fish well. But squeeze them all to your heart’s content!
La Brisa has great positive energy – service is enthusiastic, upbeat and informed. The space is bright, open, clean and encircled in a wall of windows. There are no reminders of the former 15+ year tenant, a Greek diner. Beginning July 4th through October, La Brisa will open 7 days a week. The managers stated the outdoor space will be ready in about two weeks. Breakfast is also served from 9AM to 12PM. Attracting a very local crowd, loyal La Brisa NYC patrons have also found their Mexican fix in Montauk. La Brisa enjoys two Manhattan locations.
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La Brisa
752 Montauk Highway
Montauk, NY 11954
631-668-8338
