Chez Inconsistant!

Eating dinner at is like watching the Giants this season: "Hey, alright! Oh, bummer. Alright, now we're talking! D'oh!"

It wasn't all bad, but ultimately I left disappointed.

The menu is typical American French: diverse meats and creamy sauces, pretty light on nutritious veggies. The escargots ($8) are served with the garlic and herb butter still bubbling.  Escargot is one of my favorites, and Chez Oskar's didn't disappoint. Though rich and aromatic, the sauce didn't overpower the subtler mollusck flavors. 

Aroused by the savory prelude, my palate suffered a minor disappointment with the mustard rabbit entree ($17.50). The meat had spent too long in the oven, and its Dijon — Grey Poupon, perhaps — dressing lacked the complex zest I found with the snails.

Still, the bunny rode in on a litter of perfectly crisp fingerling potatoes. I'm a potato man, and I'll tell you these pommes de terre had received a master's touch. Neither dry nor greasy, soft within, crisp without — the rabbit was redeemed. 

Next time, I think I'll play it safe with either 'les moules' ($12) or 'le cheeseburger' ($10.50). I chose to finish with the creme-brulee and an espresso. The creme-brulee was pretty standard — in other words, delicious.  The contrasts between hot and cold, crisp and creamy - a gustatory delight.

Like my meal that fateful, post-blizzard night, Chez Oskar's décor is inconsistent. The owners have created a reddish hodgepodge that falls somewhere between bohemian "shabby-chic" and your local diner.

The old-fashioned brass-rail bar is an aesthetic high point. I can picture myself there, quaffing one of Oskar's delicious hot brandy ciders. It's quiet, clean and pleasant.

Don't expect a dining revolution, but if you're looking to eat well and eat French, Chez Oskar will do.