Waterzooi - On the Strip, Off the Cuff

Where does Fois Gras Mousse share a menu with French fries and waffles? In the heart of one of Long Island's chic shopping strips – at the 12-year-old Waterzooi Belgium Bistro in Garden City.

Known for mussels done 13 different ways and its vast three-page beer menu that includes Red Ales, Trappist Ales, Draught, Abbey Ales, Lambic and Golden Ales, they tout themselves as the only Belgium scene on the Island.   

This roomy, sophisticated atmosphere has European-esqe mirrors with hand-written dessert menus. It also sports retro high-backed red booths reminiscent of NYC 1950s supper clubs. The lounge area was lively and the jazz was groovy. 

I met the former P.S. 201 lunch lady (a.k.a. my mother) at this chic haute on Friday afternoon. Much to my chagrin, she blew my cover before I arrived. Even the Wall Street brokers indulging in imported beer and seafood plucked right from the ocean knew I was there to critique the food. 

The lunch lady started with the soup of the day, Baked Onion soup with Tuscan Bread ($10). Waterzooi's take on French Onion, the base emanated from fresh stock rich with sherry and although slightly pricey, the only real problem came when we ran out.

I spent time in culinary school and my palate begged for complexity. The salad of the day did not disappoint. Mescaline with giant chunks of buttery main lobster, goat cheese, shaved fennel and blood orange segments in sesame vinaigrette arrived for $21. However, most diners might prefer a little extra vinaigrette and the goat cheese seemed as though it jumped ship before arriving at the table.

The lunch lady went with the Gnocchi appetizer. An audacious pairing of flavors, the toasted sweet potato gnocchi was coated in a flavorful rosemary cream with fresh spring peas and crumbled andouille sausage danced around the small chunks of goat cheese ($11). This dish was most memorable.

I dove into the Thai Mussels – white wine, goat cheese and roasted red pepper for $24. The choice was difficult as they are presented in over a dozen ways, from a classic Fra Diavlo to the more eccentric with smoked salmon and creamy tarragon champagne broth montrachet. My mussels were plump and swam in a spicy lemon grass flecked coconut broth with chunks of fresh pineapple. This dish is not to be missed.

The Tahitian Vanilla Crème Brulée for $8 was classic, a bright yellow custard with a caramelized top. Although done to perfection, this popular dessert can be had all over the zip code. Go Belgium – opt for the Bruxelles (waffles). The lunch lady had hers with heaps of fresh-made whipped cream and a sea of raspberry sauce.  For $10 it proved too much for one.

I went with the Ridiculous Belgium Triple Chocolate Cake in a Framboise Sauce. For $9 this piece of cake could serve three. The perfectly sweetened fruit sauce was freshly made and the cake was topped with whipped cream and a Jurassic sized strawberry. Desserts like these are very difficult to come across in the region.

Waterzooi's ingredients are enormously fresh, their flavors are complex and they shine through. The Belgium trained chef, Ed Davis, falls nothing short of genius.  

Waterzooi Belgium Bistro (850 Franklin Avenue, 516-877-2177) is an enormously unique culinary experience – it's on the strip but off the cuff.