Review: Roots Serves up Organic Rustic American

Overview: Entering Roots, it's obvious that a great deal of thought and creativity went into making the Sea Cliff Restaurant an eclectic blend of urban and down home. Tree skins hang from the walls to the background vocals of Sarah Vaughn, Deroy Wilson, Frank Sinatra or Massive Attack. 

Chef and owner David Santoro spent two years creating a place to serve his “Rustic American” menu which is rooted in his Italian background. Roots uses only organic and local foods, so expect a different selection of dishes as the seasons change. This gives foodies another good reason to come back to sample the assortment of organic and local dishes prepared by a chef who is dedicated to bringing out the best in his dishes while supporting local businesses.

Cabaret on Wednesday Nights: Open mic gives local musicians a place to be seen and heard.

Decor: It's as if a New York City industrial loft and a Tudor cottage hooked up in Sea Cliff and created a restaurant that is unlike any dining establishment in the area. The dark woods and mood lighting create a cave-like feel, but the high ceilings give this intimate restaurant the feel of much bigger space. The atmosphere is genial and engaging, and you can cozy up to the bar, booth or a welcoming table (hand wrought of recycled woods) by the fireplace and leave the world at large at the front door.

The Drinks: Roots serves Long Island wines by the glass and by the bottle, including Jamesport Vineyards and Channing Daughters from  Sylvanus Vineyards in Bridgehampton. Single Malts include Cragganmore (15 year), Glendronach (12 year), Johnny Walker Black (12 year). Roots serves up local beers and beers from Canada, Belguim, Germany in bottles or on tap. Cognacs and after dinner drinks are available.

Appetizers: Get Started with Antipasto for two ($16), 20-min-fishcake (Chunks of fish, potato bread crumb, polenta, remoulade) ($12), roasted beet salad ($12), escarole and brussels sprout salad (gorgonzola, pomegranate seed, pecan stuffed dates) ($12), seasonal green hot salad (sautéed with vintage balsamic, Toasted almonds, cherries, bacon $(11), classic swiss or craft beer fondue (swiss cheese, warm bread, white wine or craft beer) ($18).

Entrees: While the entree list is always changing with the seasons, restaurant Roots favorites include frosted winter squash lasagna ($18), cordon bleu ($22), pan-seared king salmon ($25), pork shoulder ($19), bacon wrapped meatloaf ($22), skillet pot roast with root vegetables or chicken ($18/$22)

Sides: Equalizers for the winter – priced $5- $8. Five type olives, beets, sautéed greens, Jack’s Mac, polenta, red cabbage with bacon and apple, cast iron sweet potato, and green au gratin.

Desserts: Roots’ Tried and True: Bread Pudding ($8), dark chocolate brownie ($8). Ask about their seasonal dessert list including seasonal gelato from a local vendor.

Service: This family-run restaurant has done a tremendous job in making you feel welcome as soon as you walk in the door. It will be your job to know when to leave. It just feels that homey that you may not want to venture out until you have sampled everything on the menu.

Roots Restaurant is located at 242 Sea Cliff Avenue, Sea Cliff, NY 11579

Reservations: 516-671-ROOTS (7668)

Open Tuesday through Saturday at 5:30 p.m.