Land and Sea Marks 35 Years in Harrison

When Peter DiCostanzo opened the original Land and Sea Restaurant on Halstead Ave. in 1976, during the high-flying days of Harrison neighbors Rizzoli's and Gus' Franklin Park (which is still going strong), opening specials on his menu included a complete 4-course dinner with all the trimmings for $5.50. An order of clams posillipo was $2.25, a loaded zuppa di pesce could be had for $8.50, and you could wash it all down with a liter of wine for $3.75.

Peter DiCostanzo, chef-proprietor of Peter's Land and Sea Restaurant, has been in the business for more than 45 years and is currently marking his restaurant's 35th anniversary with specially-priced Complete Dinners and new menu options.

DiCostanzo, who arrived in this country in 1963, originally hails from the island of Ischia off the coast of Naples, Italy, where members of his family still reside. His brother Nick, who had worked the floor at his restaurant early on, owns and operates the popular Mamma Francesca in New Rochelle which is now marking its 25th year. You may also remember his brother Vincent who worked with Peter at bustling La Cantina in Mamaroneck which later evolved into Chef Vincent's. They were among the busiest restaurants in the county back then.

Land and Sea has gone through several incarnations through the years but customers visiting the current establishment will notice the relaxing enclosed bar/lounge with TVs for watching special events. A giant fish tank with live twin sharks sits as if guarding the main dining room. There is a live lobster tank in the corner. The nautical theme is carried throughout the restaurant with paintings and artifacts. Sea blue, red and white table settings and booths lend a casual air to the atmosphere. Row boats bedecked with mock-flowers hang from the ceiling. To the right is the wood burning brick oven and open kitchen. There are private catering facilities for all types of events for up to 225 guests. There is a kitch to it all.

Land and Sea's 3-course Prix Fixe Dinner Special is a good deal and available all day and evening. The meal starts with choice of soup or crisp house salad followed by choice of entree: grilled pork chops, chicken or veal parmigiana, atlantic salmon prepared broiled or oreganato style, penne ala vodka, angel hair pasta with shrimp, artichoke hearts and Italian cherry tomatoes in garlic and exra virgin olive oil, risotto primavera, or chicken marsala. Except for pastas, all main courses include a side dish. Capping off the meal are choice of house dessert and coffee or tea. Cost is a reasonable $20 per person.

The regular menu includes such tasty hot and cold starters as: fried calamari with remoulade or fra diavolo sauce; shrimp, scungilli, baby calamari and baby octopus in a lemon olive oil; stuffed mushrooms with lumps of crab meat in a vodka sauce; mashed polenta topped with portobello mushrooms, goat cheese with a balsamic reduction; and mussels marinara style or with a white wine sauce.

Personalized salads include your choice of a la carte toppings: hearts of romaine with classic caesar dressing, or spinach salad with fresh pears, dried cranberries, pine nuts and tuscan goat cheese.

Chewy crusty wood fired pizzas here are a must: my prosciutto pie was delicious with its fresh mozzarella, prosciutto di parma, arugula and sprinkle of truffle oil. Others include the basic margherita, with fresh tomato sauce, mozzarella and fresh basil; funghi, with a 'bouquet' of mushrooms, mozzarella and tomato sauce; and salsiccia, tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella topped with sweet Italian sausage and onions.

Fine pastas include: homemade cavatelli with Italian cherry tomatoes, sea scallops, snow peas, artichoke hearts with garlic and extra virgin; a decadent pappardelle 'bolognese' style, wide pasta with three meat sauce, mascarpone cheese and peas; and a very good aromatic capellini with shrimp.

Pesce A modo duo lets you select a favorite fresh fish: tilapia, Atlantic salmon, Boston scrod, scallops, shrimp, filet of sole or swordfish, and combine it with a special house made sauce: caper-lemon, tomato basil pesto, garlic olive oil or marechiara style. Live lobsters are available daily and market priced. The surf & turf here includes black angus steak and half lobster for $35.

Hearty meat specialties from the land side of the menu include: charcoal grilled black angus steak; grilled sliced hanger steak served with sauteed spinach and asparagus; sliced flatiron steak with sauteed spinach and potato in a port wine sauce; charcoal grilled pork chops with hot or sweet vinegar peppers; a hefty pork osso buco special; and half organic chicken served with sausage, lyonnaise potatoes, hot cherry peppers in white wine sauce with seasoned rice. All main courses come with soup of the day or fresh house salad.

Special Hint: There is a daily $8.95 business lunch that comes with soft drink or coffee. Main courses include: open hanger steak sandwich; pork chop milanese topped with mixed greens; grilled swordfish with mixed vegetables; or that lovely capellini pasta with shrimp. Grilled paninis and burgers are served too as are entree-sized salads. Come on in, the flavors may surprise you!

The staff is most friendly led by 12-year veteran Lillian Campos. Lillian, by the way, creates colorful umbrellas for bridal and baby showers through her own business called Good Wish Umbrella, NY. There is a display of her work in the lobby. www.goodwishumbrella.com

Land and Sea Restaurant is located at 307 Halstead Ave. Harrison, across from the Harrison Metro North station. The restaurant serves lunch Monday thru Sunday from 11:30 am to 3 pm. Main courses at lunch: $6 to $17. Dinner served from 3:30 pm to 11 pm Monday thru Sunday. Main courses at dinner: $11 to $35. Prix fixe 3-course dinner: $20. Children's menu: $8. Bar/lounge. Take out. Catering and meeting facilities. Major credit cards. Casual dress. Free parking. Handicapped access. Reservations suggested for larger groups. Phone: 914-835-1372. www.landandsearestaurant.net

(Morris Gut is a restaurant consultant and former restaurant trade magazine editor. He has been tracking and writing about the dining scene in greater Westchester for over 25 years. He may be reached at: 914-235-6591. E-mail: gutreactions@optonline.net)