Momiji Japanese Restaurant Sticks To Tradition!

Over the last few years we have seen remarkable growth in the popularity of Asian cuisine just in the sheer number of dining choices right here in Westchester.

All manner of Asian fusion eateries popping up in every town (just check out the length of Mamaroneck Ave. from White Plains down to Mamaroneck). They are all bidding for your business with every manner of trendy decor and they are located practically next door to one another.

It has gotten to the point where it is difficult to find an actual, true to its genre, Japanese restaurant in the midst of all this confusion. One that sticks to its tempura with tradition without the influence of  tributary cuisines emanating from Thailand, Vietnam, China, Malaysia and Indonesia, even Korea. (Not that there is anything wrong with these national cuisines. They can each be delicious on an individual basis.)

That is why it is refreshing to find a spot like Momiji where veteran chef/owner Katsuya Kamigaki and his wife Eriyo have been serving the public their take on traditional Japanese kitchen and sushi bar specialties for 27 years. This   restaurant with small sushi counter started back in 1983 in the Harrison Shopping Center and moved to its present cozy 30-seat location in 1987.

It is a long, narrow room reminicent of a Japanese Izakaya (a rustic pub room) decorated with rice paper print windows, floral art and faux floral highlights. On top of the wooden tables is a tray of condiments along with a whispy floral branch. When I visited during the lunch hour Chef Kamigaki was busy behind the small sushi bar while Eriyo, who serves as waitress, was tending to her customers.

I wanted to taste a variety of sushi-sashimi with some extras so I opted for the Sushi Sashimi Combo, chef's choice of 5 sashimi, 5 sushi, 1 roll. It came with a bowl of rice and miso soup.

The miso was soothing, as it should be, and loaded with product. A nice lead into the colorful combo platter with artistically arranged, meticulously cut slices of Big Eye Tuna, Spanish Mackerel and King Salmon. The sushi selection (laying on a bed of rice) included Big Eye medium fat tuna, sweet shrimp, a wedge of tomago (egg), fluke and stiped bass. A typical California roll with cucumber, crab meat and avocado, came with the platter. All was fresh and tasty accompanied with the requisit sliced ginger, seaweed and a good dose of wasabi. (I always enjoy that wasabi rush!)

In keeping with these recessionary times, Momiji is offering a number of special meals at relaxed prices. They include a variety of daily luncheon options called 'Super Lunch Satisfaction' for $7.95, like choice of a daily special served with soup, salad and rice, or a bowl of Udon, hot soup with noodles with choice of California or tuna roll. The Super Express Lunch includes choice of soup or soda, appetizer and any two rolls from their special menu for $9.50. Lunch boxes are available for $10.

On my next visit though, I will probably want to venture into their kitchen specialties. Dishes like: Negimayaki, broiled beef roll with scallions; char-broiled Chicken Teriyaki; Una-don, a favorite with delicious tender eel over rice; or the Shrimp and Vegetable Tempura.

And how's this for a unique learning experience: On Tuesdays, when the restaurant is closed, Chef Kamigaki is available as a cooking tutor. By advanced reservation, for a minimum of six guests, he will come to your home and teach you the art and history of sushi making.

Momiji Japanese Restaurant is located at 261 Halstead Ave., Harrison. The restaurant is open for lunch Monday, Wednesday-Friday, 11:30 am - 2 pm. Dinner is served Monday, Wednesday-Sunday, 5:30 pm - 9 pm. Closed Tuesdays. Main courses at lunch: $7.95 to $14.25. Rolls from $3.25. Dinner main courses: $14. to $26. for a combo platter.  Chef's choice Omakase: from $30. Cocktails. Take-out. Off-premise catering. Major credit cards. Casual dress. Free street parking; parking lot at rear. Reservations suggested for larger groups. Phone: 914-835-1078. www.momijirestaurant.com

(Morris Gut is a restaurant consultant and former restaurant trade magazine editor. He has been tracking and writing about the dining scene in greater Westchester for over 25 years. He may be reached at: 914-235-6591. E-mail: gutreactions@optonline.net)