Nagahama Gets Fresh

Heday, the master chef and owner at Nagahama, is like many celebrities, in that he goes by his first name only. That's fitting, considering that some say his sushi restaurant in Long Beach is gaining star status as among the finest on Long Island. 

After he honed his craft for fifteen years at Taiko in Rockville Centre, Heday decided to branch out on his own and took his reputation and his growing following with him to Long Beach.

Recently renovated and dressed neatly in mahoganies and off-whites, Nagahama, at 169 E. Park Ave., has a clean, simple vibe that keeps the focus on the food. A variety of hot and cold sakes and a broad beer selection open the bidding simply and effectively.

Heday prepares a variety of specialty and non-raw dishes, including a Miso Cod that rivals New York City's Nobu.

But as restaurant-goers in Long Beach know, when you go to Nagahama you go for the fish.

"I come here nine of ten times when I have sushi," said resident Carol Wolinsky while she waited to pickup take-out, which Nagahama prepares and packages to perfection. "It's just completely fresh. The presentation is good. The people are nice."

Heday travels daily to fish markets in Brooklyn and the Bronx to inspect and purchase fish. The product has little to no down time, going from the boat, to the market, to Nagahama, to the Long Beach faithful in a matter of hours.

When it comes to sushi and sashimi, Nagahama can knock you out by keeping it simple or going for broke. Basic offerings such as tuna roll with avocado, or spicy salmon roll with cucumber, are just as unforgettable in taste and presentation as Heday's renowned and monstrous dragon roll with scallop and barbecued eel. And his sashimi is always spot-on with just the right color, texture and temperature.

Aside from the freshness of their sushi, Nagahama separates itself from the pack with a knowledgeable, flexible and friendly staff. Many of Heday's crew has been with him for over a decade. Several of them chat at the front counter and offer up their thoughts on why people make Nagahama their only choice for Japanese cuisine.

"Heday is a master sushi maker," said long-time hostess Yorimi Nagano. "But people really come here for Michelle."

Michelle, the veteran Nagahama waitress who also goes only by her first name, and who sports an easy-going smile and has impeccable tableside timing, could only demure and say "Thank you."

To which Long Beach sushi lovers say, "No Michelle, thank you!"