The Treehouse: Old School in a New Decade

Everywhere you turn on Long Island, there's a chain.  As in restaurant.  As in staffers wearing multi-colored uniforms.  As in 2-for-1 goblets of blue margaritas.  As in popping fried appetizers in your mouth while listening to "Come On Eileen" on the jukebox and watching the Mets and Yankees on a plasma screen simultaneously.

Sometimes you need a break from all that, when you want to watch one game, with a beer, and carry on a conversation.  But as the restaurants and bars get bigger and more commercial, where in our area can one go when they're all Applebeed out?

For nearly forty years in Merrick, the answer has been The Treehouse Sports Cafe.  It's a bar and restaurant, sure, but in this case, less is more.

The Treehouse is an old school tavern in the 21st century.  Analog in a digital world.  It doesn't even have a website (though according to management, that soon may change).

It's right off Sunrise Highway for all to see, and has been since 1972, when Bill Dineen bought it.  Sadly, Bill passed away last year.

"People I think are a little offset by the fact that he's gone," Treehouse manager Cindy Clavell says.  "He was an icon here, he was here every day."

Dineen's widow Nancy intends to keep The Treehouse going, but with all those chain choices and a sluggish economy, can she make a go of it?

"She's doing the best she can," Clavell says.  "We had a peak there, then for the last two or three years, we've been slow, but we're still here."

The Treehouse offers most of what the big places do, just scaled down, and in terms of the menu, quality.  A steak dinner for $12.95? You won't find that at Chili's.

You also won't find a party room, readily available at The Treehouse.  A myriad of events are held there, be it high school reunions, softball team celebrations, even post-funeral gatherings.

While there have been renovations through the years, the decor remains warm and inviting.  Wood and dim lighting - a perfect contrast to the bright lights of the game on TV.

Another reason The Treehouse is holding its own: consistency.  Staff members that have worked here for years.  Clavell has been the manager for nine years, and bartender Steve D'Argenio has been there for 19.  He too believes The Treehouse offers a more sophisticated alternative to all the rest.

"It's a place where you can have a conversation, have a sports debate, a political debate," he says.  "A lot of regulars here, lot of intriguing conversations."

'Comfortable' seems to be the word of choice for both staff and patrons alike.

"There never seems to be any trouble here, you can walk in and know just about everybody," says Doug Grodski of North Bellmore, who's been coming here since the 70s.  "It's a comfortable atmosphere."

As the chains keep popping up and the temperature rises, can The Treehouse continue to stand tall?  Clavell hopes so, and feels it's the perfect 'on the way' summer spot.  As in 'on the way to Freeport?' or 'on your way to a Jones Beach concert?'  Then stop in for a quick drink or a bite to eat, on the way.

"Bill used to say it's the best kept secret in town, he was proud that his place worked by word of mouth," Clavell says. "Everybody knows your name here, it's like Merrick's 'Cheers'."

An old school reference.  Bill Dineen would be proud.

The Treehouse Sports Cafe is located at 1833 Sunrise Highway. They can be reached at 378-9634.  No website (yet).