Fork Slope: A Review of Purbird

When chicken is made well (and I mean really well) be it roasted, rotisserie or flame broiled, it is, at least to me, the culinary equivalent of James Brown. Is there anyone who doesn’t like it? It’s a crowd pleaser.

Aside for those who don’t eat chicken, there is something incredibly satisfying about a really well-made chicken. A chicken cooked the right way is satisfying in a soulful, comforting way. And because so much of what is out there is inferior, when it’s done well, it deserves respect. At Purbird, which opened late last summer, chicken is not only cooked to perfection, it is the star of the show. 

Purbird reminds me of something a culinary school chef instructor once said to me, “Do one thing and do it well.” And that is exactly what Purbird does. So much of why chicken is looked down upon and why pork and other meats have rose in popularity in recent years is because far too often what is being served is poorly made with flabby skin, dried-out white meat and rampant under seasoning. 

The house specialty is a flame-grilled chicken offered as a whole ($15.95) or half ($8.95). The chicken is split in half and aside from a small thigh bone, it is otherwise boneless. It is flame grilled, which creates the perfectly crispy and charred skin. It arrives juicy and tender, like chicken is supposed to be. In fact, the first bite is like a breath of fresh air.

Purbird serves Amish farm-raised, hormone-and-antibiotic-free chicken, which means that it tastes more…well, like chicken. Several sauces are available to enhance your bird, like roasted lemon and parsley. But while they all sound delicious, they are superfluous.  

Chicken also appears on the small, focused menu disguised as a burger ($5.50), a grilled breast sandwich ($6.95), a pot pie ($4.75), a thigh wrap ($6.25) and in a noodle soup ($5.50). They also have three salads, including the chopped salad ($7.95) with house-roasted beets, chickpeas, roasted peppers and feta.

The stand-out side, which beats out creamed spinach, whole grain mac 'n cheese and a vegetable of the day, is the creamy and spicy jalapeno mashed potatoes. It is a hearty portion, which could easily feed two.

However, make sure to grab a lot of napkins for it is spicy enough to cause your nose to run, but not too much that it will fry your tongue.

Each chicken order is also served with their delicious “Purbird bread.” Crispy and yet chewy, with subtle hints of rosemary and oil which rounds out the meal nicely.

They offer a $15 dine-in lunch special that gets you a half chicken and two sides (one mashed potato and vegetable of the day).

Delivery is also available, which isn’t a terrible idea as the space itself might leave something to be desired. It feels busy and cramped even without many customers.

A few places that specialized in chicken have recently closed in the neighborhood, and while we don’t like to see any businesses close, I can almost guarantee that what they served was not close to Purbird's bird. They have set the bar fairly high and we should all be thankful. 

Lastly, the friendly and accommodating staff, including owner Christina Lekkas, make return visits a no-brainer. 

Purbird, 82 Sixth Avenue, (718) 857-BIRD (2473), www.purbird.com