La P’tite Framboise: Port’s French Connection

The crowd's three-deep at the 15-foot marble-topped bar, the banquettes and tables bursting. Saturday night has French brasserie La P'tite Framboise humming. If the wait at the bar is any indication, diners have happily embraced the new spot since bidding arrivederci to its Italian-predecessor Pomodoro.

The brasserie is dressed in typical bistro style. Provence sunflower-yellow walls showcase colorful Lillet and Perrier Jouet posters as well as French soccer shirts; bare wood floors hold marble-topped tables and plush red banquettes embroidered with gold fleur de lis. The windows wear white lace cut-work curtains. It's French fashion for the food-set.

Happily, style equals substance and diners in search of hearty French fare are well rewarded. Tuck into the warm baguettes and terrines of pate and butter while studying the extensive menu. 

More than a dozen entrée selections await, along with "Plats du Jour" — daily specials of French favorites including a succulent duck a la'orange on Tuesdays ($23) and a heaping bowl of bouillabaisse ($28) on Fridays. Appetizers also include a wide selection of French standards including onion soup ($8), escargots ($9) and brie sur toast ($10). Three varieties of mussels can also be had in steaming red crocks ($14), paired with plates of crispy, salty pommes frites.

What is more French than duck confit? An off-the-menu appetizer of the evening, the rich leg of duck was served on a bed of frisse, blue cheese, candied walnuts and toasted sliced apple crisps ($13). A stunning combination. Less successful is the caramelized onion tart over greens with goat cheese and tomatoes ($10). The crust was dry; the custard filling gummy and dense. 

Carnivores or lovers of rich, savory foods won't want to miss the Saturday special entrée — braised short ribs in a pinot noir reduction over asparagus risotto ($27). The meat was fall-apart tender, the reduction a vivid glaze of flavor.

Cap the indulgent meal off with chocolate bread-pudding. Who's counting calories at this point? Know that this last extravagance is worth it; the dessert combines dark-chocolate brownie taste with the airiness of French toast.    

An evening at La P'tite Framboise is an evening well-spent. The service is attentive. The bread plate never remains empty and unchecked coats are quickly whisked off to the coatroom. The food is hearty, solid and enjoyable. The atmosphere lends itself to conversation and conviviality. 

Diners not wanting to be elbow-to-elbow with surrounding tables may wish to request a banquette when making reservations, but the cozy, crowded atmosphere is all part of the charm. Give Gaul a go at La P'tite Framboise.