Out to Lunch: Dynasty

"Location, location, location" goes the familiar mantra of real estate agents. Dynasty has it. Yet, somehow, the location doesn't really add anything here. Yes, it's by the water (on Inspiration Wharf at 405 Main Street). Yes, there is parking in the lot by the bay (and that is convenient), but once you walk into the dim interior of the restaurant, you could be anywhere.

The restaurant doesn't benefit from a view, or much sunshine. The interior is mostly dark and cavernous (or perhaps it just seemed cavernous because it was so empty on the day of our visit). The main room has about a dozen white linen covered tables, as well as a bar. A couple of the tables are huge — big enough for a large extended family — and come complete with a lazy susan in the middle. On our visit, however, the main room was devoid of life. The room we were led to was off of the main room, and had windows facing the driveway to the parking lot, allowing some sunshine in and brightening things up. There were about six tables in this room, only one of which (aside from ours) was occupied.

Waiters immediately rushed over with hot tea, crunchy fried noodles, Chinese mustard and duck sauce. The waiters were militarily efficient, yet never cracked a smile. The lunch menu, available Monday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m., offers plenty (34 to be exact) of reasonably priced choices. In fact, 33 of the 34 lunch offerings are the same exact price — $7.95. One, Steamed Mixed Vegetables, is a dollar less.

Lunch includes a choice of Wonton, Egg Drop or Hot & Sour Soup, as well as a choice of White, Brown, or Roast Pork Fried Rice. My lunch companion had the Egg Drop soup, which although slightly over-salty had a good, almost creamy consistency and rich flavor. The Wonton Soup, however, was pedestrian. Not bad, just average. (I measure all Port Washington Wonton Soups against the one at Shanghai Pavilion, which is the best I've had thus far).

For my main dish, I had the Beef and Broccoli. The portion size was perfectly adequate — I didn't have leftovers. The meat was nicely done and tender, but the broccoli was a bit underdone and I found the sauce to be a bit blander than I would have liked. It was fine, but not a standout. My companion's Sesame Chicken arrived in a fairly oily sauce. It consisted of about five or six large breaded chunks of white meat chicken, breaded and fried, coated with sauce and sprinkled with scallions and sesame seeds. It was accompanied by several pieces of barely steamed broccoli. Neither my companion nor I was terribly impressed with the dish, although she was less critical. I found the sauce to be seasoned oddly and have an almost meaty taste — not what I expected.

The service was excellent, if a bit chilly. Our pot of tea was quickly refilled when empty; our food was brought promptly. I was a bit disappointed though, with my overall experience. On the plus side, there is parking, you can get in and out in under an hour, and it's very quiet and would work for a business lunch. The price is certainly reasonable — lunch for two, with tax and tip, was $20. On the con side, I just didn't feel that the food was anything special, and the restaurant itself felt tired to me — almost past its prime.

Dynasty may, in fact, be a better choice for dinner, rather than lunch, when there are more patrons and it is livelier. The restaurant has a full bar, which would also be a plus for dinner. Dynasty is probably also a good choice for big families or large groups who could benefit from the oversized tables with lazy susans. If you are looking for waterfront dining, this isn't the place. However, if you are walking around the waterfront area and are looking for a quiet place for Chinese, you'll find it here.