Out to Lunch: Montebello

When I mentioned to some friends that I was going to Montebello restaurant for lunch, their responses were all the same: "They're open for lunch??!!" Yes, it is an apparently little known fact (despite the large banner across the restaurant announcing it) that Montebello is, in actuality, open for lunch on Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays.

Like La Parma on the Bay, for dinner Montebello is a family-style Italian restaurant — meaning that portions are large and meant to be shared by at least two people. But also like La Parma, at lunch Montebello serves individual portions. The restaurant is conveniently located on Haven Avenue, about a half block off of Main Street, and right opposite the LIRR station. Free parking is available in the LIRR lot after 5 p.m. on weekends, but metered parking on Haven is available during lunch hours.

I had the great pleasure of having Port Washington Patch editor Paul Shapiro as my dining companion. We were both rather taken aback at the emptiness of the restaurant. One table, out of perhaps 20 white linen covered tables, had patrons who were finishing up their meal. Over the next hour, we were the only customers there. The lack of customers, however, certainly wasn't due to the food, which turned out to be terrific.

The restaurant is tastefully decorated with bi-level dining areas and a bar up front. There seemed to be only one person working at the restaurant the day we were there — a distinguished looking elderly Italian man who served as maître d', waiter, bartender, (and possibly cook, as we didn't see another soul there). Service was relaxed … there was certainly no rushing (or being rushed).

The menu covers what you'd expect from an Italian restaurant — appetizers including salads (13), pastas (11), main courses (15 — primarily chicken and veal dishes), vegetables (3) and desserts (4). Vegetarians will find several pastas that fit the bill, but oddly, there was no eggplant parmigiana on the menu. Those looking for seafood will find shrimp, sole and snapper choices among the main courses. Prices are fairly reasonable — appetizers average $5, pastas about $8, main courses hover in the $9 to $12 region.

I started my meal with the Zucchini Fritti (a.k.a. fried zucchini) which was, I have to say, the best I've had in town thus far. It was actually the perfect fried zucchini — light, crispy, and gently dusted with salt. Oddly, it wasn't served (as it is traditionally in Italian restaurants) with marinara sauce for dipping, but since I prefer a lemon wedge anyway, I asked the waiter for that. (I'm sure he would be equally as accommodating to a request for marinara sauce.)

Paul had the Mussels Marinara — a huge portion, enough so that the discarded shells took up two large bowls when he was done. The mussels were in a lightly spicy marinara sauce, and 99 percent of the shells contained a morsel of mussel. Paul deemed them "good, but not great," and noted that they were variable in flavor (some were "fishy tasting," some were not).

For my main course, I ordered the Chicken Milanese — a thinly pounded breast of chicken, breaded and fried and topped with a salad of chopped tomatoes, arugula and greens dressed lightly with a hint of balsamic vinegar. The contrast between the warm crisp chicken and the cool diced salad was pleasant and added to my enjoyment of the dish. (Usually you order a salad with chicken on top … this was chicken topped with a salad!) The portion was quite large and I was able to bring half home for lunch the next day. (Note: the salad doesn't hold up as well as the chicken does after a day in the fridge.)

Paul tried the Veal Parmigiana which he devoured with great enthusiasm. The ample portion of breaded veal was smothered with cheese and sauce and served alongside penne with marinara sauce. He deemed his veal "perfect," and highly recommended it. (The fact that he polished off the whole dish also spoke volumes about his enjoyment of it.)

Although we couldn't squeeze in another bite, desserts (which include Tiramisu, Cheese Cake, Tartufo, and Tortoni) are reasonably priced at about $3 a serving, and are probably worth trying.

Montebello would be excellent for a business lunch — especially if you need a subdued environment for discussing corporate dealings. It's also a great place to eat if you're trying to hide, or are just looking for some peace and quiet. Paul described it as "a delicious barren wasteland" and he was right on target. It's possible (although not easy) to be in and out in an hour. The price for two, including wine, appetizers, main course, tax and tip was about $60. And, of course, the company for this lunch was delightful.