Out to Lunch: Salvatore's Coal Oven Pizzeria

There is a large wooden sign hanging over the cash register by the front door at Salvatore's. There is really no missing it and its bold proclamation — "No slices. No credit cards. No crybabies." And believe me, there are no crybabies walking out of Salvatore's, just satisfied, satiated, and happy customers.

Like the sign above the door at 124 Shore Road, everything is pretty upfront and straightforward at this pizza and pasta joint. There are maybe 15 or so red-and-white checkered table-clothed tables in a darkish room with a mirror at the end (giving it the impression of being bigger than it is). The walls are covered with photos and newspapers articles about famous Italians — singers, actors, etc. — mixed with what appeared to be some family photos.

The coal-fired oven, in which the pizza is made, is located out in the open on the side of the dining room. While you eat, you can watch the pizza guys do their magic.

The menus, which serve as plastic coated placemats sit at each place setting, and offer very basic choices. The menu is the same, lunch or dinner, with the only differences being that you can only order individual 10-inch pizzas and individual calzones during lunch. The menu is basic, but covers anything you'd want from this sort of establishment — three choices of antipasto ($8 to $10), two soups ($4.25), two salads ($6.25 — but toppings can be added for extra), and five types of rolls for $8 (small) or $13 (large) including Sausage, Eggplant Parmigiana, Stromboli, Meatball Parmigiana, and Chicken Roll. There are seven pasta choices, most of them baked or stuffed, but there is also a pasta and vegetable dish (Pasta Vendure) and macaroni with sauce or butter (always a good choice for kids). 

But chances are, you haven't come to Salvatore's for salads or soups or even pasta. If you are smart, you have come to Salvatore's for the exceptional pizza. Cooked in a coal fired brick oven, this pizza has a crust that is thin and crispy, slightly singed and blackened in places, yet also dense and chewy. Your fingers may end up with a bit of charcoal on them, but you won't be dripping in grease, a common hazard with most ordinary pizza.

At lunch, you can order a 10-inch "individual" pie for $7 (a great buy, considering the 16-inch "small" costs $14.75.) There are only two types of pizza available here: the standard (with homemade fresh mozzarella, crushed tomato and basil), or the white pie (with fresh mozzarella, garlic, grated cheese and basil). The protocol is to choose your basic pizza and then add whatever topping you'd like (which run the gamut from the standard pepperoni to the upscale artichoke hearts — each is $1 on an individual pie). My lunch companion and I each ordered an individual regular pie — mine with artichoke hearts, hers with black olives — and unsweetened iced teas, which arrived in large plastic cups.

The pizza was truly excellent — light, flavorful, and loaded with toppings. The fresh mozzarella was tasty but not at all greasy, the tomato sauce added bright notes and the sprinkling of fresh basil was the perfect finish. As I mentioned earlier, the crust is sublime — crisp and chewy. I ate my entire pie (10-inches equate to four large slices), but my companion managed to save half of hers for her husband (who also was taken with this very different pizza). I walked out already thinking about when I could return for my next pizza.

This is not the place for a business lunch. They do not sell slices or accept credit cards. While there is parking (the restaurant is located in a strip mall opposite the King Kullen shopping center), there aren't many spots. On the pro side, the food is great, the price is reasonable (lunch for two with tax and tip was $26), you can be in and out in under an hour, and yes, you can get beer with your pizza.

By the time you are done reading this article, a new pizza place has probably already sprouted up in Port Washington. It's frankly astounding how many pizza joints this town can support. However, if you are looking for something different, something authentically Italian that doesn't make you feel like you've completely blown your diet — try Salvatore's. But remember to bring cash and leave the crybabies at home.