The Two Sides of Tava

Walking into Tava today may have repeat customers doing a double-take. The amber-hued, fine-dining ambience of Tava circa 2007 is still pleasantly in evidence, but one of the two dining rooms has morphed into a bright, modern, Americanized burger joint.

Pop art adorns the glossy white walls, offset with lipstick red trim and checkerboard accents. Iconic images — peace signs, yellow cabs, movie theater popcorn boxes — provide  punctuation. The Americana embellishments echo the menu's classic fare. Eight varieties of hamburger vie for attention along with standards such as hot dogs, grilled cheese, BBQ chicken and Cobb and Caesar salads. The menu's price point is as cheerful as the décor, with the most expensive item topping out at $8.95, and the cheapest a recession-friendly $2.95.

Yet the food is more than a strict homage to the heydays of 1950s diners. The delightful Port Salad ($8.50) mixes romaine, raisins, addictive candied walnuts and goat cheese, with a light bath of pomegranate vinaigrette. And how many menus boast a Zucchini Wich ($6.95), an inspired invention combining lettuce, yogurt sauce and a zucchini pancake? Burgers are juicy, and the fries a standout.

The journey from baba ghanoush to burgers began when the husband-and-wife owners realized they sometimes wanted family friendly, American-style food. "Tava is an extension of our kitchen," said Nesli Ciner, a Turkish-American raised in Kansas. "We eat traditional Turkish food, but sometimes we want to eat what our kids like."

Diners in search of the dim lights, cozy atmosphere and mood that spell "date night" will prefer the more formal, sister dining room. Red walls, ebonized floors and gilded accents set the stage for the Ottoman Empire-influenced menu. A complementary puff of warm Turkish bread and small bowl of marinated black olives welcomes every diner. The service is attentive, and largely informed (although the new waiter had trouble fielding questions about the Turkish wine).

The chef/owners may have Turkish roots, but the menu primarily features pan-Mediterranean standards such as humus, dolma, baba ghanoush, grilled meats and shish kebabs. While the choices are unsurprising, the quality is inspired. The eggplant appetizers showcase the transformative powers of grilling — baba ghanoush ($9.95), chargrilled eggplant and warm lamb cubes, and eggplant Istanbul ($7.95), panfried eggplant with peppers, tomatoes and yogurt sauce. The Tava Lamb ($16.95) was excellent, the meat tender and fresh, the accompanying vegetables nicely grilled, enhancing their flavors. An even bigger surprise was the Grilled Chicken Shish Kebab ($16.95). So often a boring dish, the chicken was tender, flavorful and juicy. Again the vegetables were cooked well. With both dishes the accompanying rice pilaf was generic and flavorless. Disappointingly, the most singular Turkish dish on the menu, the Manti, mini dumplings, were somehow both dry and slightly gummy. Happily, the Silken Flan dusted with starburst patterns of cinnamon ended the meal on a sinful, stylish note.

Tava succeeds in a way that many something-for-everyone menus so often do not. Separate kitchens, different chefs and the clear demarcation of dining rooms keeps the Ottoman Empire and the Empire State cuisine distinct.

For reservations, hours and menu information, visit www.tavarestaurantandbar.com.