Play it Again and Again: Sam's Italian Ristorante

On the night of my son Sam Wyomng’s birth in 1990, I brought my daughters to Sam’s Italian Ristorante. Big treat: new brother, school night, dinner out. I’m sure I had the baked clams and the veal francaise. The waitress, Mrs. Milara, was as excited about my new Sam as I was.

Sam’s is a Dobbs institution. But you can acutally eat there, too, quite well. It’s not just the history, which there’s been plenty since it opened in 1961. The owner, Maurice Giliberti, renovated and refurbished the place a few years ago. But it hasn’t been homogenized or stripped of its soul. It’s a good example of what some in Dobbs say, “Do whatever you want, just don’t change anything.”

When my Isabel is indulging in her Female Fridays I will sometimes hang out at the bar with the “Just Folks,” eating my bar pie and clams. But I recently checked out Sam’s for lunch.

“Everything’s made to order. We don’t have any soup hanging out.” Roz Cuozzo, who ate here as a kid, informed me. I had the pasta figulio, prinarily because I like saying it. She steered me to the small portion as I was also ordering an entrée. That’s pasta and white beans in a tad-spicy tomato sauce for you neuvo Italians. 

Frankly, I would’ve ordered the $10 Soup, Sandwich, and Beer(!) special but I felt guilty, and feared contributing to putting them out of business. Plus they put warm bread on the table even before I ordered.

I entreed on veal capricciosa ($13.50) which is a much tastier way of saying veal milanese with chopped salad atop, linguine on the side. Forget about dinner tonight. The veal was tender and crisp. Many restaurants are quite adept at serving this soggy.

Did I leave anything out?  Oh, yeah, the time Maurice saved a slice of tiramisu, for “the red-headed girl,” my Ariane. That’s not just fun to say, it’s fun to eat.

The Crowd: Mayors, cops, firemen, lawyers, brokers, kids, and all the other hungries

Think About: The lunch special. If you don’t mind robbing the place

Don’t Miss: Did I mention they have great whole baked clams?

Bring: The kids. They grow up so quickly

Essentials: 125 Main Street, Dobbs. 914.693.2008