Perrine Restaurant: Success by Central Park NYC

Restaurant Critique

Perrine

2 East 61st Street New York, NY

Pamela Goldman

Photos: Gerald Feldman

Patch.com

Located in the most prestigious Pierre Hotel, overlooking

Central Park, is the latest incarnation of French-American

cuisine: Perrine. The french female name for Pierre, Perrine

is by all standards polished and completely attuned to what

is exciting, fresh and fun.

Under the direction of Executive Chef Ashfer Biju, who is of

Indian descent, the restaurant has both a classical menu and a

menu of Indian specialties. Chef Biju’s standard is to create

farm-to-table, seasonally inspired dishes with the end result being

a seductive indulgence that one dreams about again and again,

like the most exquisite stroll through Central Park in which we

all wish to partake whether we are native to NYC or visiting.

At Perrine, the dishes are both vintage Pierre classics, yet with

a whim of vibrant, harmonious flavor pairings that are colorfully

composed with the ethics of sustainable dedication. One third of the

ingredients are sourced from local and regional farms. The result

is a sophisticated and plush experience. The 1940’s styled dining room

is filled with original works of art and a soft ambiance even when

full, a setting for a quiet, intimate evening.

As one enters the restaurant and the champagne buckets appear, you

are led to your table like royalty and the celebration of life begins.

Although Perrine is unpretentious and casual, there is still a feeling

of old world opulence, just what you would expect at the 1930’s

Pierre hotel. One can taste the sumptuous evening before the dining

even begins.

Warmly, we were greeted by the lovely manager Meaghan Levy who

informed us that the restaurant was three years old and that The Pierre

Hotel was the first place in NYC to serve Indian food back in the 1950’s.

Throughout the evening, she looked over us with warmth and

consideration. After ordering drinks, a covered bread basket of, warm from

the oven, perfectly seasoned focaccio is served. This delicious bread

baked daily on the premises. The music softly streaming was that of Frank
Sinatra,Tony Bennet and others from that era.

For our appetizer, we shared a portion of Poached Shrimp.

This was served on a bed of ice with both cocktail sauce and a separate

remoulade of celery root and horseradish. Fresh and grand, the shrimp

were delicious, tender and quite large. We were very surprised when the

chef gifted us with one of his famous flatbreads. It was stellar. The warm

zucchini flatbread was served on homemade naan with roasted tomatoes,

herbs, chilies and Parmesian cheese. A true talent, he is!!

As we proceeded into our main course, I chose the grilled lamb chops.

All natural New Jersey, grass fed lamb was served on a bed of faro, an

ancient grain, with summer squash and a delectable smoked tomato and

peach compote. The lamb chops, seasoned to perfection, were the best

lamb chops I have ever had and the composition of the dish was
artistically stunning.

My partner went for a dish from the Indian inspired Pierre Grill

menu of 1948. He selected chicken curry. This was chicken served in a

Fenugreek scented tomato butter sauce. Both of us were utterly satisfied.

Admiring the great service and their flawless timing, our dessert menus

arrived. I ordered the Creme Brulee Suzette which had citrus Madeleines

placed on top and my partner had the warm chocolate cake with strawberry

shortcake ice cream and crème anglaise. Both were excellent and brought

to light the extensive creativity we experienced all night long in this

understated, posh wonder of a restaurant. Here, the passion is really to

expand the diner’s heart and soul with the love and playfulness of it’s

cuisine, well deserving of the highest praise.