Sublime Italian Food on Upper East Side NYC

Restaurant Critique
Caffe Dei Fiori 973 Lexington Ave. New York, NY
Pamela Goldman
Photos: Gerald Feldman

Caffe Dei Fiori opened it’s doors in November 2014. It is the creation of owner and executive chef Daliso Gulmini who was born and raised in Bologna, Italy, one of the great culinary capitals of the world. Chef Gulmini’s desire is to remain as authentic to his native country, yet interpreting it through his own unique vision and palate. Sourcing his food from the finest Italian ingredients as well as local fare, Chef Gulmini succeeds in creating the purest most refined flavors in an excitedly, gracious and welcoming atmosphere.

Welcomed at the door by his friendly staff, we were told the chef had selected a tasting menu for us in advance. Excited for our upcoming adventure, we recalled names of prior customers such as Isabella Rossellini and Sofia Coppola...who would know great Italian food better???!!!!! A former three level antiques shop, the restaurant has a certain inviting quality with it’s colorful fresh flowers glowing through the front window, showing that this restaurant is purely a labor of love. The restaurant simply draws you inside. Small, very romantic, and charming, we were about to eat the most sublime and original Italian food on the Upper East Side.

We started with salads of Buffalo Mozzarella which is flown in from Italy every morning because the U.S. doesn’t allow buffalo milk to be sold in the states. The quality of buffalo milk is less fatty and lighter than cow milk. The wonderful pairing of the mozzarella with grilled fresh peaches, arugula and sunflower seeds, dressed in a balsamic vinaigrette made for a perfectly sweet and savory combination. A sensation dancing in all respects. Afterwards, we had a pasta course. Black squid dyed tagliatelle, pasta which is made fresh daily. It was combined with shrimp, basil, heirloom tomatoes where the flavors were infused with fresh lemon juice. The shrimp was so tender and the dish utterly sumptuous.

Next, we were presented with a course of two different fish entrees. The Filetto di Ippoglosso, halibut, was prepared with brussels sprouts, a parsnip puree and toasted almonds. Sourced from the Atlantic ocean, it was a classic fish presented in an entirely unique way. We also experienced the Filetto di Salmone con ‘Panzanella’ e Fregola, organic Salmon from the Pacific ocean served with Fregola (which is an Italian pasta the size of lentils with a nutty flavor). Resting along side a bed of chopped tomatoes, cucumbers and onion, this was embellished with a savory vinaigrette. Both fish dishes were presented in a very unadulterated style with the restaurant’s laurels resting on the quality of their fresh ingredients: not overly seasoned, yet simply masterful preparation.

Finally for dessert, we shared Crostatina ael Frutta: six or seven mini tarts filled with a custard crème, topped with fresh blackberries, blueberries, strawberries and raspberries. This was a perfect way to end our evening, with our appetites already full from the bountiful selection of courses designed by the chef/owner Daliso Gulmini. I would also like to mention that the romantic mood was enhanced by the streaming of radio music from Monte Carlo. It was exactly on par with the sophistication of the food and architecture, both simply beautiful. Evocative of a 19th century trattoria, the design work inside is all created and imported from Italian manufacturers. Daliso Gulnini invites you into his world in every sense of the word, as though you are family. This is an homage to gracious living that is rare in NYC restaurants of today. I congratulate Daliso on the success of his values and the magical flavors created from his wonderful imagination.