A Sweet Slice (and Spoonful) of Italy in Ambler

A native of Italy, and anyone who has spent some time there as a tourist, will feel they have returned upon visiting the amazing little .  This charming combination espresso café, gelateria (Italian gelato ice cream parlor), and  panini (Italian sandwich) shop is a sweet slice of Italy transported whole to Ambler, PA, and dropped around the corner from SEPTA’s R5 Ambler station.

Toto’s is the creation of Ralph and Maria Palagruto, who trace their family roots back to the town of Maida in Calabria, depicted prominently on one wall in a large mural.  They have three sons: Domenico, the eldest, who helps out in the shop, and the younger boys, Antonio and Francesco.  “Toto” (the nickname in Italy for “Antonio”) was Maria’s beloved father, and is also the name of the boys’ favorite cousin back in Maida.

With the exception of the café style tables and chairs, all of the furnishings, the display cases and shelving, the counter, the major equipment, even the coffee and gelato cups are from Italy.  His espresso coffee machine is a Faema, the grandfather of Italian coffee makers and the most widely used in Italy.  With this machine and imported “Esse Caffe” brand coffee, the Palagrutos make what Starbucks has poorly and improperly imitated (the result of Starbucks founder’s long ago trip to Italy).  Just as in Rome or Florence, morning Ambler regulars will stop in for a shot of espresso or a double-shot latte, and perhaps a pastry or a biscotti, before boarding their train to work. 

No one makes better quality, richer, artisan ice creams of so many enchanting and unusual flavors than the Italians with their gelati.  Well hello! Toto’s has the real deal, right here in Montgomery County, PA.  I have enjoyed several extended stays in Italy, and I can vouch that this is so for both the coffee drinks and the gelato.  Ralph made a major investment in his Carpigiani gelato maker, just like the ones in the great gelaterias of Rome, e.g., Tre Scalini in Piazza Navona.  His gelato recipe and even the ingredients are all imported.

On any day, there are 16 flavors of gelato,  and 4 sorbetti (sorbets). They are served in three sizes: piccolo, medio, and grande.  Flavors change periodically, but there are favorite constants including:  stracciatella (vanilla w/choc. chips), donatella (choc. hazelnut), tiramisu, caramel vanilla swirl, and roasted almond.  Last week there was the very special spumoni gelato (strawberry, chocolate, & pistaschio) There is even pumpkin gelato, special for Thanksgiving.  You can even order an affogato – a scoop of gelato with a shot of espresso poured over it.  And there is homemade tiramisu pastry too.

There are also always two graniti ( fruit-flavored Italian slush drinks) to choose from.

I have made several delight-filled visits to Toto’s, mainly at lunchtime for sandwiches, and in the afternoon or evening for a dessert, or for a cappuccino and a good pastry (like a chocolate-filled croissant).  My favorite sandwich is a panini of prosciutto, tomato, and mozzarella, sprinkled with olive oil and oregano, lightly press-grilled (see photo).  During the summer my visits would typically include a refreshing granita.  Most recently, I enjoyed a strawberry granita, fruity and not overly sweet, with my favorite panini.

Just the other day my LDC and I stopped in and had a delicious vegetarian panini filled with eggplant, sweet pepper, and mozzarella zested with olive tapenade; and a milder tasting chicken parmesan wrap.  We shared a hot bowl of superb Tuscan white canelli bean and ham soup, perfect for that rainy afternoon, that even finest Italian trattoria would be proud to serve.  This savory lunch’s finale was hand scooped gelati: dark and deep chocolate, and a combo of coffee (my favorite) and caramel swirl.

Note:  Everything I have mentioned above costs less than $7 each, for the highest price sandwich.

Toto's Caffe has inside seating, tables on the covered front porch, and umbrella tables outside out front.

An anonymous, ice cream loving philosopher once wrote, “Without ice cream, life would be darkness and chaos,” …well, certainly not as sweet.

Overall Rating:  mmmm (out of 5 m’s)  authentic espresso drinks, gelato, and more.

Address: 35 N. Main St., Ambler    Phone: 215-628-3980

Website: www.totoscafeambler.com                        

Cuisine:  Homemade gelato, Italian sandwiches, panini, wraps, espresso bar drinks

Hours: Open daily at 10 a.m. to 9 p.m., except 11 a.m. on Sun, and until 11 p.m. Fri, Sat.

Prices:  Soups, Salads $3 to $6.95;  Sandwiches, $3.75 to $7.25.  (Cash only).

Ambiance:  A negozzio (shop) and gelateria (ice cream parlor) right out of Italy           

Wheelchair Access: No   

To contact Mitch Davis, you can e-mail him.