On a Roll

I can’t keep up with the proliferation of new sushi-centered restaurants opening all over the Philadelphia area. It is testament to the runaway popularity of this cuisine. I don’t have the exact statistics, but I would say that in the last 20 years, the number of sushi restaurants in the area went from single digits to triple digits—phenomenal growth.

Who would have thought that the typically conservative American palate would accept, much less go crazy over, raw fish?

I offer the following reasons for sushi’s surge: Its light, high-protein, low-carb character is in tune with the times for lighter meals. It is a refreshing break from the heavier, more gravy-and sauce-driven dishes of our traditional European cuisines. It is unusually consistent—wherever you go, you can reasonably depend on getting the same items, ingredients, preparation and presentation. (Of course, freshness, quality and visual flair may vary.) Most sushi chefs are trained in a lengthy, rigorous apprentice system. Most of all, these delicacies are amazingly tasty and satisfying.

One of the more recent additions to our sushi scene is Kumo Asian Bistro, a small chain migrating down from upstate New York, Connecticut and New Jersey. The one in our area opened February of last year in the English Village Center in the space that had been a Starbucks. Seating a moderate 90 within, it is often booked up on weekends for dinner. 

Kudos and thank yous to owner Jack Chan for bringing his successful little chain of Kumos to us.      

The single, relatively small dining room boasts some very chic décor, with matte black-brown walls, tables and leather-upholstered chairs, and an unusual dropped celestial-like ceiling. The room’s point of focus is the (non-seating) sushi bar with the sushi chefs in view below the shiny, bright aqua green mini-tiled wall.

On my first visit to Kumo, I went for a late lunch with two companions, and found the ambiance, service and food to be of high quality; I had a very enjoyable experience.

Manager Jim Yang informed me that the restaurant receives fresh fish from its supplier four or five times each week, and shellfish daily.

Each lunch offering comes with miso soup and salad in a divine ginger dressing. The quality of the miso and freshness of the salad were remarkable.

Also, I was pleased that Kumo took extra care to keep and serve hot things hot and cold things cold. The soup reached the table a good bit hotter than I usually find, and the salad was attractively plated in a well-chilled, deep white square porcelain bowl.

Our lunch entrees were beautifully presented—a hallmark of quality Japanese cuisine.

Kumo's lunch (bento) boxes feature such choices as chicken, shrimp,  salmon teriyaki or General Tso's chicken (only $10 each) as the main ingredient and include, in their own separate compartments, a California roll, vegetable tempura (lightly batter-fried veggies), shrimp shumai (steamed dumplings) and rice, all in a sectioned red lacquer box.

The bento boxes are recommended to satisfy bigger eaters. At my last lunch visit with my son, a big eater, he ordered the bento box featuring steak teriyaki ($11), and he was fulfilled.

Three succulent fishes plus yellowtail are the featured players of the sashimi lunch ($12.50). The freshness and quality of the fish were immediately apparent.  Only the more delicate yellowtail tasted a wee bit “fishy,” which was not on par with the other three.

Those who favor maki rolls will like a combo roll lunch, where you pick from a list of 15 different rolls (any two for $10, any three for $12). This was for me. I chose a salmon avocado roll, a yellowtail scallion roll, and a spicy tuna roll (the latter was the best of the three), with crunchy panko inside. I totally relished this same combo roll lunch platter again at the most recent lunch visit with my son.

Kumo also serves raw-bar shellfish, hibachi lunches and dinners, various hot entrees and noodle dishes.

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Overall rating:  mmmm  (out of 5 m’s) for its excellent sushi menu and nice ambiance    

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To contact Mitch Davis, email him at MdavisMainCourse@aol.com.

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Location:  1460 Bethlehem Pike, (English Village), North Wales

Phone:  215-283-6066

Website:  www.kumoasianbistro.com                            

Cuisine:  Japanese, with sushi the main focus

Hours:  Open daily for lunch and dinner

Prices:  Lunch plates $8 to $14.50 (includes soup and salad)

Dinner:  Appetizers, soups and salads, $2 to $14; entrées, $12 to $26

Ambiance:  Sophisticated, contemporary decor

Reservations:  Strongly recommended on weekends

Credit cards: Visa and MasterCard

Alcoholic beverages:  B.Y.O.B.            

Special features:  Ample parking in lot in front