Newtown Square Pizza: Wide Variety and a Little Extra Sweetness

If you go to St. Louis, MO, and order a pizza you will find that what they consider pizza is a completely different entity than the doughy goodness you are used to here on the east coast. In fact, a friend of mine actually went back to the pizza shop where he had purchased his pie to say that there was something wrong with it to which the cashier replied, "You're not from around here, are you?"

My friend was indeed a newcomer to St. Louis and a stranger to the pizzas made with provel cheese "a pasteurized white cheese made from swiss, provolone and cheddar" and sweet tomato sauce (they add sugar to it). I kept thinking of this story as I ate my slices of pizza at .

I met a friend for an early lunch and we decided on the mini (8-inch) pepperoni pizza and buffalo chicken cheesesteak, respectively, and drank water and ginger ale. The food came out in a timely fashion and we sat down in the clean dining area.

Don’t get me wrong, the pizza was good. The crust was a lovely golden color, crisp on the outside and light and chewy on the inside. Making good pizza dough is a skill. There are many variables to consider: what kind of flour, how much water, what kind of fat, how long do you let it rest, etc.

A little known secret is that dough that has rested overnight obtains a richer golden color once baked than extremely fresh dough. Resting the dough also allows the gluten that has formed from kneading to relax a bit so that the dough is elastic but not tight and rubbery. The dough at Newtown Square Pizza was handled well and each bite had a nice crunch and texture. There was plenty of mozzarella cheese and they were not stingy with the pepperoni slices. I had a spicy, meaty piece in every bite.

My only complaint was that the tomato sauce was a tad on the sweet side. I like sauce that is savory and bursting with tomato flavor. When I picked up on the sugary notes of the sauce I counteracted it by adding crushed red pepper and salt. The heat and salinity balanced out the flavors nicely.

My friend’s regular buffalo chicken cheesesteak (regular size is a foot long, while a large is a whopping 19 inches) was indeed tasty. There were numerous chicken tenders smothered in hot buffalo wing sauce stuffed into the long roll. The sauce was spicier than other versions I have tried but still tasty. It was the kind of hot wing sauce that you can feel flooding your nostrils when you take an inhalation. Acidic, pungent and not for the faint of heart, this sauce packed a punch.

The bun was toasted on the outside for added crunch and flavor. I could have done without the melted slice of American cheese but my friend didn’t mind it. The blue cheese dressing was savory, slightly funky and creamy. As designed, it did provide a nice cooling contrast to the spicy sandwich. My friend enjoyed dipping the sandwich into it while I thought the sandwich was delicious enough to be enjoyed on its own.

The space is small but functional. There is a wall of refrigerated drinks, a scattering of tables, a clean floor and some “artwork” adorning the walls. Take a closer look at the posters and you’ll understand what I mean. The counter area is spotless and you can see into the kitchen as they prepare your food.

I had popped in a few times and noticed that the staff is always cleaning the grill, the griddle and their working spaces whenever they are not preparing food or taking care of guests. Cleanliness is next to godliness in my book so I really appreciated this fact.

The service is prompt and efficient. It’s not the chattiest bunch but you know your food will be prepared well and come out quickly. Our questions were answered right away and anything we needed in addition to our food was given to us immediately (extra silverware, napkins, to go containers).

The staff at Newtown Square Pizza work very hard and take pride in what they do. If you're looking for some sweetness look to the pizza sauce and not to the staff. The extensive menu will satisfy even the pickiest bunch and the price is always right.