Aneu Bistro and Wine Bar Offers Natural Flavors and an Ambiance to Match

We turned off of Lancaster Avenue into Aneu’s covered parking lot, a brief reprieve from the rainy night. I could hear the sound of the R5 slowing to a halt at the Berwyn station just a few feet away.

“Perfect location,” I said to my friend, right off of the Paoli / Thorndale Line.

We walked past the handicap entrance and around to the front of the building. Passing the outdoor area, I wished for a warm May night. But this night, outdoor-seating as inviting is it may have looked, was not to be in the chilly mist and drizzle.

Entering through a vestibule still labeled Meredith’s and up a few steps, an empty hostess stand awaited our arrival. Not a moment later, a friendly man came rushing towards us, ready to seat our party of two.

It was chilly and I silently hoped for a warm seat, but wouldn’t dare be that person – asking for a seat away from the vent. I had dressed appropriately and hoped I’d warm up after a few minutes, which I did.

The room was awash in beige and browns, complimented by wrought iron throughout the obviously well planned décor. A perfect accent to the natural oranges and reds found in the unfinished exposed brick wall.

We were seated at the first of a handful of roomy tables against the exposed brick. Our wooden table was set with a neatly folded black napkin (great for women who complain about the lint left on their slacks from the typical white linens), our silverware tucked snugly inside.

My friend and I sit. She, an avid Phillies fan, instantly realizes her chair allows for a perfect view of the game; a silent television fixed flush against the wall up at the bar.

The friendly bartender who met us at the door came back with menus and the offing of waters. We looked over the wine and cocktail selections, noting that there were wines at every price range – even a bottle for $0, but only on my friend’s menu. We debated ordering the literally priceless bottle, but instead went with an inexpensive glass for each of us. A Pinot Grigio for her, and for myself, a Montepulciano – my favorite Italian wine, generally from my family’s home province of Abruzzi. Its dry, great with food and above all, right in my price range at $8.

Our bartender, who remained nameless at this point, took our drink order and left us to decide on our meal.

We perused the menu, deciding on what to share. The menu, though large, was approachable and had options for any palate and every appetite.

Appetizers included Truffle Fries, a ½ Dozen Raw Oysters (MP), Tomato Flatbread, Calamari, Beef Skewers, Panko Crusted Tuna, Mussels, BBQ Pork Quesadillas, Tomato Bruschetta and an Artisan Cheese Display ranging from $9 - $15.

The Soups and Salads portion of the menu offered a Crab and Corn Chowder or the verbal soup du jour – a Gazpacho. Salads were all reasonably priced at $9 each and included the Signature Salad, Tomato and Mozzarella, Spinach, Beet, Icehouse Wedge or Caesar.

Entrees were broken into Land, Sea, Signature Dishes and Pastas ranging from $17 for a Chicken Cappelini to $32 for a Filet Gorganzola. The Land section included Fliet, Veal Picatta, Pork Tenderloin and Meatloaf. Sea’s bounty included a Maryland Style Crab Cake, Seared Red Snapper, Hawaiian Butterfish and Grilled Salmon. Signature Dishes were Steak Frites, Organic Crispy Chicken, Seared Scallops and Truffle Mac and Cheese. Pastas offered a Short Rib Bolognese, Shrimp Risotto and Chicken Cappelini.

Suddenly, a waitress appeared, ready to take our order. The swap from our anonymous bartender to our currently unnamed waitress was abrupt, but we managed an order, nonetheless.

We decided on the Artisan Cheese Display, a trio of seasonal cheeses served with crostinis and assorted acoutrements ($15) and the Beet Salad, roasted red and golden beets topped with arugula, candied almonds and goat cheese and tossed in a roasted shallot vinaigrette ($9) to start. Then we would move on to the Organic Crispy Chicken, a French boned breast served over chive gnocchi with baby zucchini, pearl onions and wild mushrooms in a chicken jus ($20), and an order of the Truffle Fries, shoestring fries tossed with parmesan, parsley and truffle essence ($9), just because.

We handed back our menu and cheered to good friends.

Our server quickly returned with toasty sourdough dinner rolls and a seasoned olive oil for dipping.

Our cheese plate arrived, as did our “beet” salad.

The cheese plate was beautifully presented on a granite slab. Three cheeses surrounded a handful of greens, rimmed with four or five crostini, sliced green apple, shelled pistachios, dried cranberries, two strawberries, a handful of grapes and some sort of sauce.

The display was set in front of us and with that, our sever left us to decipher what we had been given. The cheeses themselves were delicious, though not knowing what we had been served was a point of contention. As for the accoutrements, luckily my friend and I could snack on what we were given, evenly distributing the crostini between us, laughing about the fact that if our husbands were there to share, they would have needed to put a few more on the plate.

Though we had an entire salad waiting in the wings, I couldn't help but have a go with the greens on the cheese plate. Too bad, they were simply window dressing.

Midway through our cheese and halfway to a sip of wine, I stop.

“Is this “End of the Road?!” I exclaimed!

Sure enough it was, and the Boys II Men track piping through the sound system instantly brought me back to third grade. After our trip down memory lane to a time of tapes and obviously good tunes, our server appeared again to check on us.

We inquired about the cheeses we were given and told that we had two goat cheeses and a “Mahoney.” A follow-up inquiry moments later revealed that we were served a humble fog, a goat cheese and again, a “Mahoney.”

A little fact checking and I was finally told over the phone that our cheeses were Hombult Fog - a double cream goat cheese, Mahon – a Spanish cow’s milk aged three months and Miticana a goats milk cheese. (Thanks chef, for the clarification!)

Just as we were digging into our “beet” salad, Adele’s “Rolling in the Deep” came on the sound system. The arugula salad, as it should have been named, was perfectly dressed with shallot vinaigrette and sprinkled with candied almonds, though it could have used a hint of salt to pair with the sweet. The beets, one red and one golden were sliced and hidden under the mound of fresh greens.

While still finishing up our first course, our entrée and fries arrived. Apparently the chef was getting a little jumpy in the kitchen, seeing as our plates had yet to be cleared. Our server juggled the fresh dishes, while making room and clearing the first course.

The organic chicken arrived very nicely plated in an oversized bowl. Hidden below a perfectly crisp and salty skin the meat of the French boned chicken breast was moist and delicious. It sat atop a mix of zucchini, wild mushrooms, gnocchi and pearl onions in a very dark sauce. When we asked our server about the sauce we were told it’s a bit of oil, the mushrooms, and what comes out of it…

Interesting.

The menu, once reviewed, called it a chicken jus. Dark and reduced as it was, it made sense. At least more sense than an oil and wild mushroom runoff.

The wild mushrooms were delicious and the use of the pearl onions made me long for my grandmother’s peas and onions at Thanksgiving. The poor little pearl onion – so neglected. Thanks to Aneu for giving it a home; sweet and firm, swimming in the thick chicken jus. Delicious!

The fries came solo and were fragrantly truffle-y.

And then, along with a little Bob Marley, it hit me.

Eureka!

Truffle fries dipped in chicken jus!!! Yes! Everything has its place in this world and for that chicken jus, it was to accompany my lonely truffle fries!

We skipped dessert – what with all of the fruit that came on the cheese plate. I usually strive for a balanced meal, and I’d felt that I had already hit the mark. So we graciously asked for the bill and ended our time at Aneu.

With graduation season upon us and the spring really just now hitting its stride, Aneu Bistro and Wine Bar will be the perfect location for the entire family, just the gals or even a couples night out. The energy is youthful, the ambiance equisite and the menu abound with options.

The restaurant opened two years ago in June as Merideth’s and was rebranded to its current name, Aneu, this past October. With just six months into its new identity, Aneu is beginning its first spring and summer seasons and is sure to be a neighborhood hot spot in the coming months.

Aneu Bistro (formerly Meredith's AMerican Bistro)

575 Lancaster Ave.
Berwyn, PA 19312

Telephone: (610) 251-9600

Website: aneubistro.com