Pandl’s Serves up Comfort Food in Comfortable Surroundings

With nearly a century in operation, the proprietor of attributes his establishment’s remarkable staying power to two modern-day aberrations: a rooted community and low staff turnover.

“We’ve really been fortunate to be based in a village where so many people are lifelong residents and have gotten to know and support us through the years,” said John Pandl, Jr., of the E. Henry Clay St. eatery overlooking Lake Drive that his grandfather opened in 1915. “I’ve had people who’ve been with us for 30 to 40 years, which is practically unheard of in the restaurant industry, so it’s key for us that customers see the same familiar, experienced staff.”  

Rather than rest on its laurels, however, Pandl’s has taken steps in recent years to attract more customers. In 2006, outdoor seating was added to accommodate 50 patrons (Pandl’s  interior dining area and bar hold up to 90 customers) and the restaurant is now open for lunch and dinner seven days a week, rather than six.

“There are issues you have to stay on top of, no matter how long you’ve been in business, like food costs, staffing and expanding your customer base,” said John, who purchased Pandl’s from his late father, John Sr., in 1994. “Our outdoor seating has allowed us to reach a new clientele, such as families with young children and a young crowd, who may just want to stop in for a drink.”

Still, John said he’s careful not to make too many changes, lest risk alienating his bread-and-butter customers, the ones who flock to the celebrated village landmark as often as twice a week to dine on German-American fare that includes schnitzel, beef rouladen and German pancakes.

With its old world décor and ambiance, Tom Fehring, commissioner of the Whitefish Bay Historic Preservation Committee, likens a visit to Pandl’s to a return to yesteryear.

“Dining at Pandl’s is like a step back in time, to when Whitefish Bay was still a resort destination,” he said. “The Pandl’s family preserves that atmosphere, with photographs and memorabilia from the early 1900s and an authentic German-style venue that includes their own beer."

Beyond interior decorating, John’s family plays an integral role in Pandl’s operation. His wife, Laura, a full-time registered nurse, works an additional 25 to 30 hours a week at the restaurant; mother, Elaine, is the bookkeeper; and children, Ryan (age 21), Jacob (16) and Amanda (14), help out as servers and bus persons, when not attending school.

From the age of eight, when he began his Pandl’s career by buttering and salting leftover hard rolls to make garlic chips, a popular restaurant staple, making the family business his life’s work was the only career ambition John entertained.

While in pursuit of his goal, John honed his trade at the restaurant through a series of positions, including dishwasher, bus boy and bartender. In 1982, he complemented his hands-on experience with a bachelor’s degree in Hotel and Restaurant Management from the University of Wisconsin-Stout.

“There are many easier ways to make a living and earn more money, but I love this,” said John, who puts in 60 to 70 hours a week at the restaurant. “I really enjoy spending time in the kitchen and interacting with staff.

"We’re only a corporation on paper. In reality, we’re a family," he said. "And that’s what makes Pandl’s special.”