Sakura: Unleash Your Inner Shamu

What I remember most from my dinner at Sakura Japanese Steak and Seafood House is getting hit in the eye with a shrimp. 

Granted, after a delicious cocktail and an unsuccessful attempt at chop stick usage, I should have known that saying “No” when asked by Jeff, the teppan chef, if I wanted to “catch the shrimp in my mouth” was the best way to go.  But the dude at the next table seemed to be catching shrimp in his mouth like he was a regular act at Sea World.  So why not? 

One shrimp on the floor, one in my hair, one in the eye, and I knew why not: Sakura is a festival of dangerous fun.

To be clear, aside from the invited shrimp flying at my face, I never felt assaulted or in harm’s way.  In fact, within in minutes I was encouraging our chef to make the fire at our griddle flame higher than at other tables, no matter what he had to do.  Rival tables were seen cheering their chefs on to do the same.

But the flurry of knives, twirling spatulas, and juggling of whole eggs ala Tom Cruise in Cocktail, along with a 400 to 500 degree griddle within arm’s reach, plus alcoholic beverages, raised a could-be-burned eyebrow.

Now, I enjoy the scary and thrilling.  I ride motorcycles.  I swim with sharks.  I was once kidnapped by a cab driver on a misguided college trip to a remote area of Egypt.  But Sakura is a whole different situation, where wonder tinged with fear flames your hunger, your inhibitions, and your tip percentage.

Fire is the main ingredient of all foods at the teppan tables of Sakura.  While you could sidle up to a seat at the sushi bar or for some reason opt to boil your own diner in the manner of shabu shabu, the real show happens in the area of the restaurant the host referred to as “Benihana style.” 

Teppan tables are communal, with seats encircling a cooking station, or large griddle, where a chef will cut your raw ingredients, toss them about, sauté them up, and set them on fire right in front of your face.  The items are then presented via spatula to a plate – the only thing separating you from the flames.

Sakura is elegant, vast, and clean, with crisp lines, dark wood, slate, chrome, and a feeling that you perhaps are dining in Manhattan or Vegas.  Waitresses wander the space in lovely, floral-print kimonos and despite what would seem to be a safety and health code violation, flip-flops.  There is a rich, classy aura to the space, yet with all the cheers and gasps at oil-fueled fire flares, shrimp catching, and Ginsu knife chopping, it doesn’t feel uptight.

All entrees at Sakura come with a variety of compliments, including brothy, mild, soyou onion soup, a small salad with a rather watery peanut flavored dressing, and the option of mushrooms, shrimp, or chicken livers sautéed for you as an appetizer.  Jeff the chef wouldn’t comment on the popularity of the livers.

Choosing from seafood entrées including a lobster, shrimp, and scallop combo ($36.95), sesame chicken ($19.95), and a two column list of combinations like filet mignon and lobster ($35.95), guests also receive assorted vegetables sliced and cooked to order and their choice of steamed or fried rice.  The fried rice is cooked like the meat and vegetables, on the griddle, and expertly flipped into a bowl via flat spatula and adept wrist twist.

The meats were sliced into bite size pieces and cooked to tender, juicy perfection.  The large serving of fresh vegetables and bean sprouts added crunch, texture, and well roundedness to the meal.  Watching fried egg go from shell to rice ingredient made it taste even more delicious.

While none of the items were overly seasoned, spiced, or jazzed up in any way perceivable to the amateur palate, the combination of seeing the food chopped and cooked along with the clean flavors allowed each item to stand on it’s own, natural flavors.  Two sauces, one that was much like a thin Thousand Island dressing with an aftertaste of hot spice and a dark ginger concoction, are meant to be used for dipping and flavor enhancement.

Sad that I had wasted precious shrimp by allowing it to land on the floor, Jeff the chef swung around some extra tidbits, spatula and knives spinning and food flying to applause.  I missed again and again.  My waiter looked at me with sadness and announced “I’m gonna go now.” 

Jeff the chef simply shrugged.  “Maybe next time better.” 

Maybe.

Sakura Japanese Steak and Seafood House

985 Foothill Blvd.

La Cañada-Flintridge, CA 91011

818-790-1013

www.sakurasteakhouse.com

Monday to Thursday 11:30 am to 2 pm and 5 pm to 9:30 pm

Friday 11:30 am to 2 pm amd 5 pm to 10:30 pm

Saturday noon to 10:30 pm

Sunday noon to 9 pm

To-go meals available, but do not include in-home performance of teppan chef.