How to make Meyer Lemon Semifreddo

Executive chef and co-owner of Italian restaurant Il Davide,  David Haydon, is a classically trained French chef.  When he was 15, his career began at The Petite Auberge, the San Rafael French restaurant many Marinites remember fondly. In an old school kitchen - which spoke only French – Haydon worked his way up from dish washer. 

“It was very structured. Graduating from garde manger to saucier was a huge deal,” said Haydon. 

Next stop was La Trattoria, where, at 17, Haydon ran the buffet, and trained further with the highly regarded Mark Leslie. 

Feeling that the hands-on apprentice type education, which he and most French chefs received, beats today’s pricey culinary schools, Haydon told his son who wants to get into the business that he must be willing to put in at least a month and a half at the dishwasher, plus time in the dining room as server assistant, then server, and also work as bar back before even thinking about management.   

Haydon, who grew up in Fairfax and San Anselmo, said,“It’s a business of variables. Something is always going on which the diners never see.  When the fridge or dishwasher aren’t working, I can take them apart myself and try to fix the problem. Experience is priceless. ” 

From La Trattoria, he went to Lucca in Mill Valley, then opened Café Ristorante Italia in San Rafael when he was 23.  He had a silent partner, and managed 30 employees. Because he sat in on the negotiations, he learned the process of buying a restaurant. And twelve months later, he had built it into a venture that grossed an annual $2 million. When Haydon was only 30, he decided to strike out on his own by opening Il Davide, and his loyal clientele followed.   

Besides running the restaurant, which seats 90 and has a staff of 24, Haydon also does off-site catering from small dinner parties to large events.  He is currently refining details for an upcoming charity evening, Great Chef’s of Marin, to benefit Life House. 

Decorated with murals of the Tuscan countryside, Il Davide offers Italian standards, the most popular being Veal Piccata and Sole Dore. But Haydon is always experimenting with innovative items, especially lighter sauces. Currently, the ambitious menu of some 40 items features 15 pastas, five meat dishes and six chicken dishes. New additions are tortellini porcini, warm brussel sprout salad and compressed tomato cappelletti.  “I listen to my customers and am  influenced by what they request," he said.  

Closed only on Monday, the bustling restaurant is open for lunch and dinner every day except Sunday which is dinner only.  Some romantic tables are set outside under twinkle lighted trees for al fresco dining. The charming Haydon, who seems to know most of his patrons by name, is partners with ex-wife Eva Tuffannelli. She handles front of the house and also does the book keeping.  Daughter Makenna goes to Sir Francis Drake High School and is about to get her driver’s license.  

In his spare time, Haydon is working on a cook book, “Cooking Fit with Innovative Italian” which is about diet and lifestyle.  A representative recipe is salmon poached in grapefruit saffron stock, served over sautéed swiss chard, surrounded by saffron fish fumet and topped with fennel slaw. 

For the last fifteen years, Il Davide has won high Zagat ratings, Pacific Sun Best of Marin Awards and Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence. They feature a great wine by the glass program and are known for the large and eclectic list, with many Italians under $50 a bottle. A popular appellation is the local Starry Night, made by impressive winemaker Sean Thackrey.     

Il Davide’s Meyer Lemon Semifreddo – Serves 10 

For Semifreddo: 

1-3/4 cups chilled heavy whipping cream

1-1/4 cups plus 2 tablespoons sugar

7 large egg yolks

½ cup fresh Meyer lemon juice, or regular lemon juice (about 2 lemons)

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons finely grated Meyer lemon peel or regular lemon

   peel

¼ teaspoon salt 

For garnish: 

½ cup shelled spiced pistachios (roasted with cayenne and salt) 

Raspberries, mint sprig, and drizzle or splash of aged balsamic vinegar if you like. 

Preparation: 

Using an electric mixer, beat whipping cream until soft peaks form. 

Whisk sugar, egg yolks, lemon juice, lemon peel and salt in large metal bowl to blend.  

Set bowl over large saucepan of simmering water on burner, and whisk constantly until yolk mixture is thick and fluffy.  (Instant read thermometer  should register 170 degrees, about four minutes.) 

Remove bowl from simmering water. 

Using electric mixer, beat yolk mixture until cool, thick and doubled in volume, about 6 minutes. 

Gently fold in chilled whipped cream. 

Transfer to 10 – 4 ounce ramekins, or desired containers, and freeze at least four hours. 

Can be served in ramekin or unmolded.  Garnish with spiced pistachios, berries, and mint. 

If you unmold the semifreddo, dip bottom of ramekin into hot water for several seconds and invert onto dessert plate. Serve with same garnishes and drizzle with aged balsamic vinegar. If you add a triangular shaped wafer cookie, your dessert will look like it was made by a restaurant chef.  

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