How to Make Sirloin of Lamb with Port Pomegranate Sauce

Hanna Anki, who moved to Marin County from Jordan in 1975, worked at the iconic Perry’s  in San Francisco and later at Perry’s Mill Valley place which was called Butler’s (Perry’s last name).

Starting as a dishwasher in 1970, by the time he left in 1989, Anki was general manager.  “I did every job there,” Anki said, “from busboy to chef to management. I learned from the ground up. My teachers were the best in the business.”

Today, Anki not only owns  in San Rafael but also two delicatessens in West Marin, Woodacre Market (since 2005) which one of his daughters runs and Lagunitas Deli, which his Irish wife operates. That one is the last market on Sir Francis Drake Boulevard before residents and tourists reach our glorious beaches.  

It’s widely known by the cycling community, and also by those of us driving four wheels, for the creamy dreamy milkshakes.

After Perry’s and Butler’s, Anki became Food and Beverage Director at Smith Ranch Homes, a luxury active retirement community. The chef was Heidi Krahling Insalata with whom he had worked at Butler’s. She went on to own Insalata’s in San Anselmo and they remain good friends.       

Because Anki and his wife have two sons and two daughters, an owner is always at each deli or at the restaurant. Growing up in Marin, the kids attended St. Raphael’s and Marin Catholic High School. 

In 1994, when he moved into the space where Hanna’s is now, the building was much as you see it. The Italian cuisine had quite a following, so Anki kept the pastas but added his Mediterranean specialties.  “The restaurant deal happened very fast,” he said. “One day it was Carlo’s, the next day it opened as Hanna’s.”

With the festive outdoor patio, Hanna’s can handle events up to 100 people. It’s a wonderful party space, perfect for rehearsal dinners, anniversaries and birthday parties.   

The Mediterranean cuisine offers many vegetarian choices. Carlo’s recipe for penne with tomato cream sauce, called house pasta, remains one of the most popular dishes as does chicken Hanna (skewered chicken marinated in a medley of Hanna’s spices served over flat bread with cucumber mint yogurt on the side.) Sea bass with pine nuts, raisins, almonds and garlic, and lamb shish kebab–cubes of lamb with Hanna’s spices–run a close second.

Appetizers include prawns shawirma, sautéed in ouzo, lemon and garlic and the mezza platter features hummus, babaganoush, feta cheese, grape leaves and falafel.

Organic house wines are under $30 a bottle.  Desserts include caramel amaretto flan and chocolate decadence.

Though he is the executive chef, Anki does not cook every day.  He designs the menus and likes to create special dinners on holidays.  At the recent Lifehouse charity event featuring North Bay wineries and chefs, he made hundreds of small bastillas, a Moroccan filo dough pastry purse filled with spiced chicken.  

The décor at Hanna’s is old world, homey and relaxed, with wonderful photos dotting the walls. In summer or winter, it feels more like a residence than a restaurant.

For fun, Anki enjoys hiking with his wife.  “I also love eating and trying new restaurants,” he laughed.  “In fact, all of us in the family are foodies.  On my day off I cook dinner for them or they cook for me. We dine out often and then make the same dishes at home in an attempt to replicate the flavors.

"Usually," grinned Anki, "we are right on.”     

Middle Eastern Roast Sirloin of Lamb with Port Pomegranate Sauce (Serves One)

 Ingredients:

8 ounces sirloin of lamb, trimmed of fat

1 teaspoon allspice

1 teaspoon cumin

1 teaspoon coriander

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon kosher salt

½ teaspoon black pepper (for spicier option add pinch of chili powder)

2 teaspoons pomegranate molasses

1 tablespoon tawny port

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Method:

Preheat oven to 370 degrees.

In small bowl, combine the dry ingredients.

Generously sprinkle lamb with the spice mixture making sure all the surfaces are covered and patting firmly onto the meat.

Heat olive oil in an oven safe frying pan.

Roast the meat on high heat for two and a half minutes each side.

Transfer pan to preheated oven.

Let cook for eight minutes (for medium rare.)

Remove from oven, place lamb on chopping board to rest.

For the sauce: To lamb juices in frying pan, add port and pomegranate molasses. Reduce for about two minutes. 

To serve: Slice lamb and place on top of soft or hard polenta cut in a triangle or square shape, orzo, or brown rice. Drizzle with sauce and garnish with chopped parsley. As you see in the video, Hanna’s serves the lamb on top of a polenta triangle, topped with the sauce and broccoli spears.

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