L is for Lamb Rack, Tandoori-Style

Meat chewed off a bone — it sends me. I have a weakness for it; my inner Cro-Magnon goes nuts when I have an opportunity to gnaw on any kind of rib, chop, shank or knuckle.

 At the top of the list of lusciousness for this kind of experience? Lamb chops tandoori-style, as they are served at on Fourth Street.

 At Lotus, racks of lamb — approximately six chops to an order ($22.99) — are steeped for nearly two days in a mildly spiced, sumptuously flavored yogurt-based marinade. After being threaded on skewers, they’re lowered into a tandoori oven. Near-volcanic temperatures of 700-degrees Farenheit from the enclosed coals instantly sear the edges of the meat to a caramel-blackened char while keeping the interior insanely juicy and tender.

 The quick-roasted chops, wreathed in billows of steam, are presented on a cast iron platter over a bed of sizzling onions, green peppers and tomato chunks. An order of garlic naan on the side ($4.25) makes for a near-perfect dinner. Sop up the juices with the bread; make a little sandwich with those savory vegetables, wilting into a bronzed tastiness as you gnaw away.

Lotus Cuisine of India is at 704 Fouth Street, 456-5808, www.lotusrestaurant.com. Buffet lunch Mon.-Sat.; Dinner nightly; tandoori lamb chops are available only at dinner.