N is for Nachos

At their best, nachos are everything I dream of eating in a snack that also qualifies as a meal. They’re rich in fats and salts, along with crunch, smoothness and wide variety of textures as well as flavors.

 Some of the best in town are the Super Nachos at , a Mexican restaurant in the industrial section of San Rafael on Kerner Boulevard.

 What makes them great? The portion is huge — a meal for two. Served with your choice of meat, they are filling, savory and so munchable they ought to be served with a side of Superbowl.

 I like mine topped with copious chunks and strips of slow-cooked, meltingly tender pork carnitas, all meaty sweetness. These crown a hill of guacamole, bright pico de gallo made from flavorful tomatoes, plus sour cream. Climbing this mound from the top down, you get to a bedrock of corn chips streaked, sometimes smothered, with mild refried beans and a cheddar/jack cheese mixture melted onto the chips.

Some bites will be crisp. Some will be all about softness. Some will combine all the flavors. This is food you can play with, because no two mouthfuls are the same.

Like heat? Spike it with some the gold-toned, roasted pepper/tomato salsa that’s served with a basket of more chips when you sit down.

 The hefty portion is only $8.75. Meat choices include all the usual suspects (chicken, beef, pork, shrimp) and esoteric chews such as beef tripe and tongue.

 Weather permitting, sit outside on the pretty flower and palm-ringed front patio. Though you’re just a stone’s throw away from Kerner's traffic, it’s still pretty, and you can avoid the omnipresent Latin shows on the large-screen television inside.

 Los Palmares is at 3060 Kerner Blvd., 456-4070. It’s open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.

Contact Leslie Harlib at lharlib@gmail.com