R is for Ravioli

Who in the U.S. grew up without being introduced, early in childhood, to some kind of ravioli: little squares of noodle dough stuffed with meat or cheese, likely cooked up by Chef Boyardee?

Real ravioli, however —adult ones — succulent, silken-pouched beauties plumped with as many magnificent ingredients as can grow in a garden or graze in a field, are still relatively rare in this country.

Happily, downtown San Rafael is ravioli heaven thanks to . The restaurant’s chef/owner David Haydon turns out some of Marin’s best ravioli, with three or four out of a dozen unusual combinations, available on his menu at any given time.

Half moon, square or round shapes are made daily with hand-rolled dough based on organic flour. They're stuffed and sauced in parings such as Bellwether Farms’ ricotta and spinach in classic pasta dough, cloaked in a cheese-enriched cream topped with a little confetti of Hobbs pancetta; Niman Ranch short rib meat shredded and folded into little packages, sauced with a chianti classico reduction and sprinkled with Cowgirl Creamery gorgonzola and gremolata (a lemon zest, garlic and parsley garnish); spinach-flavored pasta wrapping musky, velvet-textured Laurel Chenel goat-cheese, then pepped with the bracing acidity of seasonal heirloom tomatoes, tomato consommé and fresh basil. Wow.

Il Davide’s ravioli are available both at lunch and dinner; prices range from $11.95 at lunch to $17 at dinner.

The restaurant is at 901 A Street, 454-8080.