Rethink Estate Restaurant

The name Sondra Bernstein in many ways evokes the heart of the Sonoma dining scene: elegant local ingredients, served in an elegant regional setting, with appropriately "elegant" prices.

Enter , the latest jewel in Bernstein's crown. The loosely Italian-inspired restaurant opened in 2008, serving, of course, locally grown cuisine in the historic former home of General Vallejo’s daughter.

I haven’t been to Estate in a while, but in celebration of the restaurant group's recent win at the Good Food Awards—Bernstein's Coppa took home first place —I figured it was a great time to revisit their spectacular house-cured Coppa pizza.

The pizza was great, truly, but what wows me is their unexpected practicality.

Every evening Estate offers La Cena di Famiglia, a four course family-style meal costing just $26 per person. A similar meal, at Ad-Hoc (you know, the place on the other side of the Mayacamas Mountains) costs almost twice as much. This is a deal.

To make things better, Estate offers complementary wine corkage Tuesday through Thursday. So, a bacchian meal for two clocks in at just over $50, excluding tax and tip.

If eating a regimented four courses isn’t your thing, check out their $15 "Pinot and Pizza" deal.  Yes, a full personal-sized pizza and a glass of wine, for under $20. It's the ultimate happy hour special, served from 5 - 6:30 p.m. every evening.

There's good things to be had on the regular menu: house-made meatballs (Antipasti ranges from $6 - $12) and I wouldn't turn down their brased lamb shank ($24). The wine list is Italian driven but has plenty of local offerings – and after dinner check their table of Grappa along with an artisan coffee.

The greatest sign of all is the company. To my right, a pleased group visiting from Italy, to my left, the chef from La Salette (one of my favorite restaurants in town), celebrating his daughter’s birthday.

A personal rule in authentic dining: follow the chefs and the Italians.

If they're in, so am I; bring on the family dinner.

The Gist: Estate Restaurant, 400 West Spain Street. 707-993-3663. Open for dinner 5 p.m. daily; "pizza and pinot" served Sun - Thur 5 - 6:30 p.m., Fri - Sat 5 - 6:15 p.m.;  Sunday brunch from 10 a.m. - 3 p.m.