A Pearl on Main Street

I don't usually think of Watsonville as a center for seafood, especially after having lived near the Santa Cruz wharf for many years. However, lately I've noticed a lot of Mexican mariscos (seafood) restaurants in the area, suggesting that there are quite a few fans to support them.

My friend Michael and I dropped in on La Perla del Pacifico on Saturday for dinner. It has a  small, ocean-themed dining room, painted a cheery blue and green. Behind a counter at one end we could see the chef and co-owner, Gabino Torres, towering over the other staff as he stirred up culinary magic. There’s a large screen television above the counter, and some of the customers were seated nearby for a good view of the soccer game.

Keeping an eye on things, Gabino's wife, Anna Martinez, is busy too, taking orders, checking on customers, and making sure they’re happy.

As we took our seats, a server immediately brought in unsalted tortilla chips and a very spicy red salsa, which I found to be excellent. It was very tempted to order the house speciality, the Comal de Mariscos, described as “A hot sizzling seafood plate” similar to fajitas, with octopus, shrimp, scallops and mussels. Or I could’ve tried the Siete Mares (Seven Seas), a seafood soup. However, on a whim I decided to go for something different, and ordered the Mitad Godorniz en Mole (Half Game Hen in Mole Sauce). Michael ordered the Mojarra Frita, fried whole tilapia.

The menu offers plenty of variety. They serve breakfast, lunch and dinner, all at very reasonable prices. You can order scallop or shrimp ceviche, and there are seven types of seafood coctails; the Campechana includes shrimp, octopus, and oysters. While the restaurant focuses on seafood, there also many non-seafood Mexican dishes and a surprising number of dishes that include game hen. But seafood lovers will not be disappointed.

My game hen was brought in on a very hot platter, along with a basket of house-made corn tortillas. The meat was smothered in a deep red sauce. Not very sweet, as mole goes, and being subtly bitter—perhaps from the chocolate and cinnamon—it was very good. The frijoles—my instant barometer for good Mexican food—was excellent; it went well with the rice and poultry.

Michael’s tilapia was breaded and fried whole—head, scales, and all. In fact it dominated the plate, which also included beans (he had asked the server to hold off on the rice) and a generous helping of salad with French dressing. I had a taste of the fish, and found it delicious, crispy on the outside, and tender and flavorful on the inside.

La Perla del Pacifico has been in the same location for 21 years, according to Martinez. Most of the food they serve is Jalisco or Nayarit style. "Gabino likes to come in as early as 6:30 a.m.," Martinez said, to "play" and experiment with the ingredients for his dishes, so you can expect a few surprises. He makes the salsa and all the sauces himself, as well.

Their daughter and son practically grew up in the place, and still often help out in the restaurant, even though both attend university, and their son, a drama major, performs with the Teatro Campesino in San Juan Bautista. La Perla del Pacifico is a family restaurant with a warm atmosphere, and this seems reflected in its customers: around the dinner hour, families arrived with their kids, enjoying their meals in the warm atmosphere, and listening to music from the big jukebox in the corner.

It was a simple dinner for both of us, nothing flashy. But this sample of delicious food convinced us to return soon.

458 Main St. Hours: Mon—Thurs. 10 a.m.—8 p.m.; Fri.—Sat. 10 a.m.—9 p.m.; Sun. 9 a.m.—9 p.m.  (831)724-0993