A Watsonville 'Oldie But Goodie'

If you’ve attended any of the , you’ve probably seen the big blue and white tent belonging to Hector’s Mexican Bakery, and you’ve caught the smoky whiff of grilled meat on their huge portable grill. There is often a line of customers at the tent, waiting patiently for a burrito, a half or whole chicken, carnitas or a sope.

I can frequently be found in that line. But Hector’s also has a small, cafeteria-style restaurant on East Lake Avenue. I went there recently with my friend, Michael, for an unusually late lunch after a long day of driving. At 3 p.m. there were few customers, and staff was mopping and cleaning up. It wasn’t an ideal time to visit.

We walked carefully up to the counter on the slippery floor. The menu lists basic taqueria fare: tacos, burritos, chile rellenos and tamales, and a small assortment of larger meals. These are primarily meat dishes, such as Chili Verde, Steak Ranchero or Chili Colorado, with frijoles, salad and rice. They also offer beer. Michael ordered the Chili Colorado. I ordered a beef sope and a chicken tamale.

The restaurant also has a basic, no-frills interior. The tables and chairs are sturdy and the plants well-watered; decorations are at a minimum. A glass cabinet holds an assortment of Mexican pastries:

• empanadas (fruit turnovers)
• conchas (sweet rolls topped with a flour and sugar paste)
• orejas (ear-shaped, flakey, sugar-coated cookies)
• galletas (cookies)

The tortilla chips were good, accompanied by a decent red salsa. My sope contained shredded beef, lettuce and tomato, crumbled white cheese and salsa. The masa base of this was crunchy on the outside and chewy on the inside. While the taste was not particularly inspiring, the sope satisfied my hunger. The chicken tamale was a bit dry.

When Michael’s Chili Colorado dish arrived, I immediately wished I had ordered it instead. He reported that the frijoles were “on the happy side of average,” but the Spanish rice was excellent. The Chili Colorado consisted of tender chunks of beef in a deep red sauce. I had a taste—it was very flavorful, with a strong hit of chili, allspice, clove and cinnamon. For dessert I ordered a pineapple empanada and an oreja to go.

Hector’s tent at the farmer market seems more lively than the restaurant. Customers are drawn by the friendly staff and the tempting smell of grilled meat. I often buy their half chicken, coated with spices and accompanied by a container of hot salsa, frijoles and handmade flour tortillas—a perfect take-home lunch.

On Sunday, I stopped by their tent at the Marina farmers market, and bought a burrito stuffed with carnitas, beans, rice and salsa. It was delicious.

Originally from Michoacán, Mexico, Jose Alcantar purchased Hector’s Bakery 30 years ago. The identity of the original “Hector” is a mystery; Alcantar says that he never met the man. With two children now in college and one son in the Navy, Jose now runs the operation with the help of friends and two staff members.

Ten years ago, he began selling food at farmers markets in Watsonville, Marina and Monterey. With the downturn of the economy, his outdoor barbecue has become an important and popular part of the business. If you want some good Mexican food and BBQ, look for the “Hector’s Bakery” sign, and find out for yourself.

2233 E. Lake Ave. Hours:  6 a.m.—8 p.m. daily. 831-722-6837.