Italian Comfort at Lil' Tony's

So far, Yorkridge Center North (10540 York Rd.) is 2-for-2.

A couple weeks ago, I had the pleasure of sampling the delectable Indian cuisine of , and after hopping next door to Lil' Tony's (and to a different geographic menu), I left equally satisfied.

Italian food isn't my favorite, but every community needs an affordable, casual Italian spot to bring the kids and get pizza that isn't churned out by a mega-chain. Lil' Tony's provides this for Cockeysville residents.

The small restaurant seems to do the majority of its business via takeout or delivery, but eating in proved to be a pleasant experience. The laid-back staff was welcoming and affable, attentive and polite without being overbearing. And I am happy to report that my dining buddy and I could keep an eye on the Orioles as the game was broadcast on the restaurant's TVs.

Lil' Tony's boasts a large menu that represents all of the traditional Italian favorites and then some. I opted for a small white pizza ($12.95) with fresh spinach, ricotta, mozzarella and parmesan cheese, and fresh slices of tomato. The pie was hot and fresh, and the generous amounts of spinach were a perfect complement to the delicate flavor of the ricotta. And it made a great cold-pizza leftover.

My dining buddy chose the veal parmigiana ($18.95), a thin slab of veal breaded and topped with tomato sauce and mozzarella. It was served over spaghetti with marinara sauce, and he reported that veal was slightly tough but that the distinctively Italian flavor was good.

I stole the side salad that came with his meal, a mix of crisp and cool romaine and iceberg lettuce with tomatoes, onions, cucumbers, olives and pepperoncini ($5.50 unless served with meal).

The salad was simple and refreshing, and if I hadn't been craving something unhealthy, I probably would have dived head first into the build-your-own-chopped-salad option. Starting at $6, customers can choose their own greens, add up to three vegetables and fruit, (like edamame, hearts of palm, roasted yellow peppers, apples and more), pasta, "crunch" (including wasabi peas, croutons, toasted almonds and wonton strips), cheese, dressing, and proteins (like grilled shrimp, flank steak, turkey and eggs).

Of course, you don't have to make your own salad; Lil' Tony's has a healthy menu of their own creations, similar to their selection of pasta dishes like fettuccini alfredo ($13.95), baked ziti ($13.95) and stuffed shells ($13.95). Lil' Tony's also has veal, chicken and seafood selections as well as paninis, wings, subs and, of course, pizza.

I couldn't finish my pizza, so dessert was out of the question, but based on my dinner, I'd expect nothing but Italian perfection from desserts like cannoli ($4.75) and tiramisu ($4.75).