Bar 'Cino Brings Contemporary Italian Food to Brookline

On a Tuesday evening, the newly opened Bar ‘Cino in Saint Mary’s is packed. Families toast across high top tables and groups of friends fight over who can pay the bill. At the bar, a young, dressed up couple nervously navigate their first date, while next to them, a senior couple comfortably embarks on their 1,000th date. At Bar ‘Cino, the Brookline community is doing what it does best, coming together, preferably over a delicious meal.

The latest feather in Newport Restaurant Group’s cap, Bar ‘Cino opened on January 17 and has quickly been embraced by the neighborhood. General Manager Bryan Parkin says some local customers have already been back two, three, even four times. “The vision of Bar ‘Cino is really to create a neighborhood environment. That’s where the word ‘‘Cino’ is derived from,” says Parkin. “As a company, we own and operate very community-oriented businesses throughout New England.”

The space is a far cry from the previous tenant, Waxy’s sports bar. In addition to the main dining room with a large, almost four-sided bar, Bar ‘Cino offers a downstairs event space for up to 22 people. Because it’s a more intimate size, Parkin says it’s offered at a very accessible price point. In fact, a group of Brookline women has already booked it for a gathering of neighborhood friends.
With simple white walls, industrial black framing, and minimalistic murals painted by Rhode Island artist Sue McNally, the main dining room at Bar ‘Cino feels like a contemporary take on Nonna’s dining room. It’s warm and welcoming with an emphasis on the meals eaten and the time spent together here. Grandma got hip, but she still wants to feed you.

The menu follows a similar path, providing simple dishes executed to perfection. “It’s contemporary Italian in the sense that there are items that wouldn’t necessarily be considered Italian, but they’re treated in the Italian manner of cooking, which is simple, very high-quality ingredients not over manipulated,” says Parkin. An example is the grain salad, starring farro, grilled vegetables, tomato, feta, pistachios, and a citrus vinaigrette. These twists bring balance to what can often be a heavy meal, without sacrificing the integrity of its Italian roots.

The pizza, a crowd favorite so far, is made with a thin dough and grilled in varying degrees of oil for an unusual crispy but not wood-fired texture. It’s served in whatever shape it landed in with a pair of scissors to cut it into pieces, a fun touch. Menu items range from $7-$19 for shared appetizers to $19-$28 for main dishes, maintaining a comfortable price point. The most extravagant meal you can purchase caps out at $65, a 22-oz bone-in ribeye dinner for two.

At the bar, a robust beer and wine program is complemented by a cocktail list plentiful in Italian spirits like vermouth and amaro. Parkin suspects the sangria on tap will also be a favorite, especially as the weather warms and the patio outside fills with diners. Both the food and drink menus will change seasonally as different ingredients become available.

But Bar ‘Cino isn’t just planning to ply the neighborhood with delicious menu items. The group is committed to supporting local agriculture and plans to work with Massachusetts farms for produce and other ingredients as early as April. Currently, they’re purchasing all of their bread from the local Clear Flour Bakery. Many of Newport Restaurant Group’s locations work with Rhode Island Farm Fresh, an organization that brings small producing farms all across New England to the wholesale market. Bar ‘Cino plans to work with them soon as well.

There’s a lot to enjoy in the new restaurant, but one of the most striking components of the experience is the service. Each staff member introduces themself by name and asks your name as well (even more impressive, they somehow remember every patron’s name). They’re attentive and friendly without being oppressive. This superior service likely comes from the fact that each employee has a genuine stake in Bar ‘Cino’s success. “We’re 100% employee-owned. The ESOP [Employee Stock Ownership] is a huge part of our company and what our values are,” says Parkin. This kind of democratic group restaurant ownership is rare in the Boston area but certainly builds on the community values of the business.

Bar ‘Cino appears to be a perfect new addition to the Brookline community, in commitment to the neighborhood, to their menu, and to their staff. Whether patrons come in for a family meal, a drink at the bar, a first date, or a 1,000th date, Parkin hopes they leave with full stomachs and lifted spirits. “I hope they come away with a great food experience but also with a warm and gracious service experience,” he says.

By Celina Colby

BrooklineHub.com is a 501C3 non-profit dedicated to reporting and commenting on life, culture and community in Brookline. As part of our mission, we advocate for non-profits vital in making this a better place to live, and by sponsoring and supporting events that promote community-building. We hold the belief that as a community, we should foster the well-being of all, remaining mindful of our young people, seniors, and underprivileged.