Comfort Food With Sophistication at Canary Square in Jamaica Plain

Overview: One of Jamaica Plain’s newest additions to the neighborhood restaurant scene is Canary Square, which opened last year on South Huntington Street. The eco-friendly venue provides a chic, comfy and affordable dining experience. The food comes from local purveyors, including Allandale Farm, in Brookline, and Russo’s, in Watertown.

The head chef, Marco Suarez, is a member of a Boston advisory board on green and sustainable practices. The focus on local agriculture and eco-conscious practices is reflected in Canary Square’s menu.

Drinks: Three chalk boards hang over the bar, clearly listing specialty cocktails, draught beer, and wine, respectively. Keeping with the local theme, some of the boozy libations have creative names like the Arborway, which mixes the sweet and trendy St. Germain liqueur with prosecco and fresh lime juice ($9); and the Centre Street, a Jim Beam-based drink with rosemary-orange syrup, fresh lemon juice and ginger ale ($9). With more than 30 beers on tap and 11 in bottles, the options run the gamut and hail from Maine and Vermont to Belgium and Germany. The wine list, while less extensive, still provides a variety of reds and whites, with a champagne and rosé option for good measure.

Appetizers: Hearty snacks with a creative twist round out the hors d’oeuvres menu. Yucca fries (served with cilantro butter, $5) are a fun and hearty alternative to the more traditional fried spud. Allandale Farm's deviled eggs ($4) and Gloucester haddock fish and chips (with house made Canary slaw, $9) advertise the local element. On the lighter side, simple greens tossed with house vinaigrette ($7) or daily ceviche on toast ($9) can whet the appetite without ruining it.

Entrées: The wood burning grill is used for several dishes at Canary Square, giving them a distinct smoky flavor. The wood grilled burger is a generous portion of beef, topped with Grafton cheddar, served on a black pepper brioche bun with a side of hand cut fried ($11). The wood roasted half chicken is another filling option, with local buttered summer beans, bacon and mashed potato ($17). Baked mac and cheese, made with Grafton cheddar, north country ham and a side salad ($13), tops off the comfort food selection.

Desserts: Several digestifs lengthen the short and sweet dessert list. Seasonal ice cream ($6) is made in house. The flavor of the night was banana, but it is subject to change. The ice cream served with the butterscotch bread pudding ($7) was maple walnut. Coffee drinks, with or sans alcohol are available, as well as an array of rums, scotch, bourbon, cognac and port ($6-$18).

Brunch: An entire category of the brunch menu is dedicated to specialty Bloody Marys. The most provocative one may be the Bacon Bloody Mary, made with house made bacon vodka ($9). The name speaks for itself. For the less adventurous, the standard mimosa and Caesar are available, sans bacon. Solid foods range from fruit salad ($6) and homemade granola (with yogurt and dried fruit, $7) to smoked onion and potato frittata (with sausage and mixed greens, $9). Also, a serving of thick cut bacon ($3), without the Bloody Mary, makes the menu as a side dish.

Ambience: Cozy and classy, Canary Square merges some seemingly disparate elements. The slate boards and fancy drinks, minimalist decor and metal furniture exude a distinctly urban sense of coolness. The brick walls, wood grill and local comfort food bring a country component to the table. The fully stocked bar, lit up by funky lightbulb clusters and three flat-screen televisions, straddles the rural city fence and embraces both sides. Also, the lively yet mellow soundtrack of 1970s classic rock music, from Led Zeppelin to The Rolling Stones, adds a dated yet freshly retro vibe to the overall atmosphere. It works, and somewhat seamlessly at that.

Service: On the whole, slightly above average service is provided at Canary Square. The host cheerfully directed us to a high-top table, which he deemed a special treat. The waitress was initially attentive, almost overbearingly so, but with the best of intentions. However, toward the end of the meal, when we wanted more service, she was nowhere to be found. The busboy clearing the table was very polite and offered a sincere smile. Nothing was over-the-top or seriously lacking.

Contact:

435 South Huntington Ave., Jamaica Plain
www.canarysquare.com
info@canarysquare.com
                 617.524.2500

Hours:

Dinner – everyday, 4 p.m. - 1 a.m.
Brunch – Sat. & Sun., 10:30 a.m. - 3 p.m.
      
Price: $$