Vee Vee Adds Something New to the Jamaica Plain Restaurant Scene

Overview: Vee Vee, named for its owners Dan and Kristen Valachovic, opened three years ago on Jamaica Plain’s restaurant-laden Centre Street. The self-proclaimed American Bistro promotes a menu long on seafood, vegetables and grains, as well as local produce, when available. It also has seasonal and weekly specials, like summer wine tastings and vegan prix fixe Wednesday.

Atmosphere: Orange–bright, jovial and often used to evoke hunger–is Vee Vee’s signature color. It works well in the small dining space, ceiling fans and warm lighting, creating a cozy environment. When full, Vee Vee is bustling and exudes a dynamic buzz. Yet, with high ceilings and efficient use of space, it doesn’t feel overly crowded. Reservations are limited, however, particularly for tables for two. Walk-ins are recommended, but on busy nights plan to wait for seating.

Drinks: Besides the vegan and local options, Vee Vee takes pride in its craft beer selection, with brews hailing from New England, New York, California, Belgium and Germany. The draught options currently include Ithaca Flower Power (16 oz, $6) and Bruery 7 Grain Saison (14 oz, $7). In bottles and cans, Vee Vee offers Mayflower porter (12 oz, $5) and Spaten lager (330 ml, or 11.1 oz, $6). The drink list includes four apéritifs, four red wines and four white wine options ($5-$10). They include a sweet Wildflower mead, which has a honey-like aftertaste ($6) and a crisp West County sparkling hard cider ($7). Wine is served in beakers, which patrons can pour into their wine glasses at their own convenience.

Appetizers: Three vegetarian (one of them vegan) ‘bar bites’ top the menu: house-made crackers and dip ($4); cheesy potato croquettes ($5); and blue cheese, pecan, apple toasts ($3). The six seasonal appetizers include shrimp and scallop cakes (served with chipotle aioli, $9), sweet potato, kale, almond fritters (with orange yogurt sauce, $8), and a starter salad with local greens, blueberry-rhubarb puree and house vinaigrette ($8).

Entrées: Keeping the menu simple, short and symmetrical, Vee Vee currently offers six main dishes. The eclectic plates cater to both vegetarians and carnivores. The one vegan entrée is crispy tofu, served with noodle cake and marinated vegetables ($16). On the meatier side is spiced ground lamb, mixed with Israeli cous cous, cashews, zucchini, mint yogurt and saffron ($25). One of the two seafood items is seared Arctic char, served with littlenecks, bok choy, napa cabbage and crispy shiitakes in a spicy sake broth ($25).

Desserts: Four unique sweet treats, $7 each, grace the dessert list. For chocolate lovers there is the decadent fallen chocolate cake, served with peanut butter ice cream, ganache and spicy caramel popcorn. On the slightly lighter side (only slightly) is rustic blueberry and rhubarb buckle, topped with crème fraîche ice cream. For those wanting to justify dessert by adding fruit, there is brown sugar cinnamon panna cotta, served with bourbon caramelized bananas, crumbled oat cookies and chocolate sorbet. Also, along those lines, vanilla bean cheesecake cups, with local strawberries, homemade graham crackers and cream are available.

Brunch: The Sunday brunch menu items change weekly, but the online menu offers a sample of what may be available. To drink are an array of juices and teas ($2), Equal Exchange coffee (regular or decaf, $2), and a mimosa or bloody mary ($7 each). Savory food includes a weekly frittata, which comes with home fries and mixed greens ($9) and New England fish cakes (with Boston baked beans, greens, English muffin and lemon aioli, $9). On the sweeter side is a Dutch baby, which is an oven pancake, served with caramel apples and almond whip ($8).

Service: Friendly and low-key, the staff are accommodating and aware of the limited space available for patrons. Wait staff respectfully allow diners to leisurely enjoy their meals, yet quickly clean up tables for those waiting at the bar or outside the entrance (there is little room to wait indoors, if the six-seat bar is full). The bartender was happy to describe each draught beer and its origin, allowing for sample tastes. Overall, the service is well-balanced with warmth, laid backness and efficiency, which is an appropriate combination for this venue.

Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, dinner only, 5:30-10 p.m.
           Sunday brunch, 10:30 a.m. - 3 p.m.; dinner, 5:30-9 p.m.

Owners: Dan and Kristen Valachovic

Location: 763 Centre Street, Jamaica Plain

Contact: 617-522-0145
             www.veeveejp.com
             veeveejp@gmail.com
      
Price: $$