Antonio's Cucina Italiana: Just like grandma used to make

It may not quite be exactly like the gnocchi that your Nonna used to make – and in all honesty, what could ever compare? – but it's pretty darn close.

At in Farmington Hills, a woman churns out fresh handmade spaghetti and other noodles in a pasta room right off the lobby. Pasta doesn't get any fresher than this. As the intoxicating smells of pizza and sauce hit you in the dining room, you immediately know this restaurant takes its traditional Italian fare seriously.

The service reflects the homey approach at Antonio's. The bartender was chatty, but not in an overbearing way, which helped pass the time as we waited for a table. We came pretty early in the evening on a Saturday, but still waited a good 20 minutes before our pager started blinking to let us know dinner would be served soon.

Our waitress seemed swamped, but came frequently before placing our meals, and the water was filled before the glass turned empty. However, she made herself scarce as we waited for our check and the water flow dried up. She was knowledgeable about the menu and open to answering all of my questions.

For starters, try either the arancinis – crispy Italian rice balls stuffed with cheese and served with marinara sauce – or the stuffed mushrooms, boasting plenty of fresh tasting crab meat and topped with melted, creamy provolone cheese.

If you are getting pasta, don't even bother with any other sauce other than the Rita, a mouthwatering blush sauce accented by the meaty and hearty flavor of pancetta and mushrooms. This is what sets Antonio's apart from your average Italian restaurant. If you're not in the mood for heavy fare, pass on the potato gnocchis: They may look like innocent little dumplings but they sink to the bottom of your stomach like an anchor. You can get the blush sauce with any of the pastas.

Your meal comes with soup or salad and the "famous baked bread." Entrees are accompanied by a side of pasta. The meat sauce is a tad on the acidic side and chunkier than most sauces.

We tried the Chicken Antonio, a chicken breast large enough to feed four people, in a creamy white sauce topped with provolone cheese. The sauce is very heavy and overpowers the plate and the palate, especially with the cheese on top of it. The dish is also kind of blah to look at – some contrasting colors would brighten up the plate a bit.

This is the type of place for those who enjoy cocktails with their cuisine. The wine list is carefully selected by a staffer at the Farmington Hills restaurant. The specialty drinks have colorful and creative names such as Marlon Brando (amaretto and cream on the rocks) and the Slapa-U-Face (with vodka, Southern Comfort, amaretto, Rum 151, grenadine, orange and pineapple juice, this sounds like it packs quite a punch as the name suggests). I chose The Don, an extremely sweet concoction of Midori, amaretto, vodka and papaya juice. It was almost too sweet.

For those who don't indulge in alcoholic libations, the espresso here is among the finest you'll get this side of the Atlantic – bold and flavorful with the right amount of crema on top.

Dinner at Antonio's is like Sunday dinners with the family: lots of laughs, flowing drinks and, of course, more food than you could ever eat.

The dish

Food: 3.5 out of 5

Price: 4 out of 5

Service: 3 out of 5

Tip: Get the Rita sauce -- you won't be sorry.