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A Travel Adventure to the Catskill Mountains of New York State
A friends' road trip to the mountains provides fun and relaxation
There are many wonderful things about New York State’s beautiful Catskills region, including its easy proximity to New Jersey. Just a few hours on the road and you are in another world — surrounded by mountains and abundant nature, fun little shops, and many dining choices.
We’d found a charming Airbnb rental in Ulster County, NY, called the Bear Cottage in the small town of Phoenicia, whose greatest claim to fame seems to be the amazing gourmet diner that shares its name. Our group of six friends checked in to our lovely four-bedroom home-away-from-home and were immediately taken with his history (built in 1890) and charm. The expansive front porch became a favorite place for early morning coffee and evening chats.
Some of us had already experienced the fun and exhilaration of Rail Explorers, also in Phoenicia, which has you peddling 8 miles round trip along repurposed railroad tracks through some amazing scenery. One of seven Rail Explorers “divisions” scattered throughout the U.S., 150,000 riders have ridden the rails in the Catskills since its launch in May 2018.
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Rail Explorers runs from late April until early November, seven days a week — but book in advance as it often sells out. Interestingly, there are no age limits to ride. Newborns can be worn in a chest carrier; toddlers can be strapped to the seat with special harnesses. (Dogs are allowed, too). Depending on the size of your group, you can ride a four-seat rail bike or a two-seater version. To call it a fun time is a great understatement — Rail Explorers is 90 minutes of bliss and a wonderful way to see the beauty of this region up close.
Here are a few other ideas if you visit the Catskills:
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Take in Nature: Lovely Kaaterskill Falls in Greene County is a 260-foot, two-tiered waterfall. Taller than Niagara Falls, it offers various viewing platforms and hiking trails and is especially dazzling during the fall foliage season. Be sure to stop at the nearby, charming Circle W Market for a bite to eat or some shopping (food, books, and gifts). Built in 1908 and restored in 2009, it is a fabulous step back in time with a modern spin.
Enjoy the Arts: Opus 40 — a sprawling nonprofit sculpture park in Saugerties, NY, defies easy description. This amazing stone art installation was created by one man, artist Harvey Fite, which makes it even more amazing. Further north, the Thomas Cole National Historic Site in Catskill, NY, is both educational and enjoyable. The tour includes an audio-visual program that features the famed artist’s own (still-relevant) musings on the natural beauty of this region. And if you’re looking for something Instagram-ready, check out the kitschy, sci-fi metal sculptures outside Boiceville’s Fabulous Furniture, created by live-edge wood craftsman Steve Heller.
Get Some Exercise: Along with Rail Explorers, the Windham Path in Greene County offers impressive vistas of the mountains, amid pristine streams and wooded ravines. The popular Ashokan Rail Trail is a lovely 11-mile recreational trail -- for walkers, bikers and dogs --that runs along the scenic Ashokan Reservoir. You can also get a sweeping view of the Hudson River via the fantastic Walkway Over the Hudson, the world's longest pedestrian bridge, which has entry points on both sides of the river.
Shop ‘til You Drop: Phoenicia has some fun little shops, including The Nest Egg, a charming country and souvenir store. Some 30 minutes away is downtown Saugerties, NY, with its bustling shopping district, featuring independently owned Inquiring Minds Bookstore & Cafe, a popular favorite. You’ll find a diverse array of books there, as well as a music section and a little space to enjoy a cappuccino. The nearby Dancing Tulip Floral Boutique has fantastic jewelry and home goods, along with flowers for purchase.
Enjoy Good Food: There are countless places to enjoy great meals throughout the Catskills. Some of our favorites include a lovely restaurant we tried for the first time, The Kitchen at Salt & Fire in Saugerties. Between the pan-seared scallops, braised beef ragout and pappardelle, and maple-chipotle pork chops, you can’t go wrong. Another winner in Saugerties is Miss Lucy’s Kitchen, a rustic café that offers delicious lunch and dinner options, as well as delicious homemade desserts. And let’s not forget the always-popular Phoenicia Diner, which despite its down-home vibe and reasonable prices, is basically gourmet diner food. It has a bar, too — we’re big fans of vanilla bourbon milkshakes. Heading back to New Jersey, stop at Jones Farm in Cornwall, (Orange County, NY, in the heart of the Hudson Valley), a true treat. In the same family since 1914, you can enjoy brunch or lunch, an amazing array of baked goods, and a fabulous gift shop — not to mention even more spectacular scenery.
For more information about the Catskills, go to www.visitcatskills.com.
Nicole Pensiero is a South Jersey-based freelance writer and a member of the North American Travel Journalists Association. Follow her on X at @NicoleWrytr.
