It's All About The Wine

While the menu at Bin 14 is considered Italian, don't expect to find large, overflowing portions or enjoy a dinner that runs on for hours at this sophisticated wine bar–the plates are made for sharing and tables are reserved in 90 minute blocks.

The young crowd buzzes in quiet conversation throughout the night, the staff is knowledgeable and friendly, and the modern décor creates a classy atmosphere. On a recent Saturday night, four friends and I escaped the blistering cold with a trip to this uptown hotspot.

When we entered the restaurant, we told the host we were there for the 9:30 p.m. seating—the restaurant offers 6, 7:45 and 9:30 p.m. seatings on Saturday nights. Waiting for the previous seating to clear out, we took a seat at the marble-top bar, just steps from the door. The entire restaurant, including bar stools and tables, has a 40-person capacity. 

At the bar, the witty bartenders explained the somewhat overwhelming wine list. I was impressed with their knowledge, as they were able to describe just about every wine offered. The list features 100 wines and champagnes from around the world and additional weekly and daily specials are listed on chalkboards throughout the restaurant.

They are also honest. As a girl next to me tried to order a cocktail, they warned her that none of the cocktails are actually worth ordering. "Stick with the wine," they expertly advised. The list breaks down the options quite simply, into categories such as White Rich and Full, Red Light and Fruity, and Red Rich and Structured.

If you're having trouble deciding even after testing their wine wisdom, there's no need to worry. The wines are offered in a variety of portions, from 2 oz to 6 oz to a full bottle. If you want to sample a few, opt for a $3 2 oz sample before committing. 

I settled on the ultra-light Chapoutier "Belleruche" Grenache-Syrah, an organic red bottled in 2007 in Cotes du Rhone, France. My sister opted for a weekly special, but was disappointed to hear they were already out of it. Instead she let the bartender surprise her. My friends were less adventurous, all three ordering the same 2007 Willamette Valley Wineyards Riesling. That was too sweet for my taste, but they all enjoyed it enough to order a second glass. 

At our table, there was no lack of service. A self-described wine master stopped by just as our waitresses walked away, and the general manager later offered menu advice. We had already ordered three bruschettas, three "serving plates" and two small pizzas when he came by, but we soon added a third pizza out of sheer curiosity. 

While his description made the truffle and taleggio pizza ($11) sound exotic, it came out too salty for our taste. The margherita on whole-wheat crust ($10) and the spicy artichoke, ricotta and lemon zest pizza ($12) were another story, both delicious. The spicy artichoke seemed basic on first bite, but the spice hits in the aftertaste. 

We could have ordered more bruschettas, as the $3-$6 plates feature just one 3-inch piece of Italian bread topped with a variety of flavors. The roasted pumpkin and ricotta was disappointing, definitely one to skip. The wild mushroom, pecorino, truffle was the best, with the Tuscan white bean and roasted garlic puree not far behind. 

The sharing plates, priced between $5-$10, were the highlight of the meal, with fried risotto balls that melt in your mouth and a light sautéed shrimp, with 4 juicy shrimp served on garlic toast. The truffle fries, much heralded in several reviews, were nothing special.  

Still a bit hungry after sharing the small plates, we were craving dessert. We were set to indulge when we realized that we hadn't seen any desserts listed on the menu, and soon found out that the restaurant offers dessert wines, but no actual desserts. It was a disappointing end to an otherwise enjoyable evening.

The wine, atmosphere and service are top notch at Bin 14. The menu aims high but several dishes miss their mark. Prices are reasonable, and small portions allow diners and drinkers to sample a large variety all in one sitting without breaking the bank.

For anyone looking for a spot a little classier than most Hoboken restaurants, Bin 14 is the perfect destination.