Simple, Authentic Tacos from Picante

From Tinga in Millburn to Tito's in Summit, from Taco Bell on Morris Avenue to Chipotle Mexican Grill on Route 22, we have our share of wannabe Mexican food joints. But hidden behind some multicolored curtains right in our own downtown, we also have the real thing—Picante Taste of Mexico.

Diego Rivera prints and colorful pottery adorning the walls, Mexican music piped through the speakers and a menu void of chalupas, salmon burritos or BBQ tacos were good signs that Picante was authentic. Sure enough, as I chatted with the owner, I learned that he was a native of Acupulco. He has worked in American restaurants for years, but for the last three years, he is a resaturant owner.

Having worked over commercial deep friers, he said he has no taste for deep-fried food, so don't expect a chimichanga nor (sadly, to me) beer-battered fish tacos. But what you can expect are simple, flavorful dishes that rely on natural flavors rather than friers.

Torn between the carne asada tacos and the tacos al pastor, I ordered one carne asada two one al pastor. Carne asada is flank steak marinated and grilled; al pastor is marinated pork with bits of pineapple (an enzyme in the pineapple is said to tenderize the pork).

The tacos were served beautifully simple—lean pieces of meat, diced onions, a generous amount of cilantro, all wrapped in two small corn tortillas, with salsa on the side. The pork looks a little greasy, but that is often the case with al pastor; it's likely just the look of the marinade, as the meat tastes good, lean and a little spicy. The pork and the steak were tender, and a squeeze of fresh lime is a refreshing addition.

Neither cheese nor lettuce nor sauce was needed to spice or fatten this up. Each of the ingredients was fresh and flavorful enough to be enjoyed as is.

On a return visit, I tried the taquitos – rolled steak tacos garnished on top with Cotija cheese, underneath with lettuce and on the side with avocado. The tortillas and meat tasted fresh, the avocados tasted like they came right off the tree and the small amount of creamy Mexican cheese complemented the whole dish well. Two small sides of rice and beans were served on the side.

Even the Coca Cola at Picante is authentically Mexican. Served in bottles, it is made with cane sugar rather than high-fructose corn syrup. A selection of Mexican bottled drinks are also available.

Other menu items looked just as tempting, from the cactus salad to the skirt steak quesadillas.

I sent one of my California friends a picture of the taquitos. Her response: "Did you tell the owner you'll be feeding his family?" An exaggeration, yes, but Picante will surely be part of my regular lunch routine. The next time you're heading for one of the wannabe joints, give Picante a try instead.