Via Vanti Transforms Mount Kisco Train Station With Good Food

Chappaqua resident Carla Gambescia had a vision. "I wanted to have a restaurant that appealed to foodies and families." The result is Via Vanti, which enlivened the historic Mount Kisco train station.

The food is, in a word, superb. If Gambescia has a secret weapon, she's Chef Dawn Tyson-Silvera. In a culinary world known for tempermental outbursts, Chef Dawn rules her kitchen with a noteworthy serenity. "We're yin and yang," laughs the high-powered Gambescia.

In fact, the two women are so in sync, they call themselves "sisters from different mothers." They talk food, kick around ideas, and have come up with creative Italian food using familiar ingredients in innovative ways. The resulting menu they term "Improvisational Italian Cuisine." Their skill and enthusiasm insures that you can't go wrong being adventurous at Via Vanti.

I was sorry that in order to make room for the feast to come, we had to skip the vaunted Autumn Roots & Fruits soup. This seasonal butternut squash soup is a great crowd pleaser. Instead, we began with the "Cleopatra". As with all the offerings, Gambescia named this herself, and don't hesitate to ask her the meaning of the monikers. This salad is a feast for the eyes as well as the palate. Field greens, hearts of palm, olives, caramelized onions and goat cheese are complimented with chopped tomatoes, roasted red and yellow peppers, and topped with a tangy red pepper and olive vinaigrette.

Incidentally, Via Vanti is happy to do substitutions. My husband doesn't eat goat cheese, so feta was used instead. As a diner herself, Gambescia confesses, " I think of the menu items as suggestions," and she's glad to accommodate discerning guests, acknowledging that "there are lots of special order people in this area."

For those who are thin crust pizza aficionados, this is nirvana. The "Carla" is fresh mozzarella with a touch of mint pesto, topped with baby arugula, and red and yellow grape tomatoes. Order your own; sharing something this good is hard!

I urge you not to leave without trying "Salmon e Piselli," a melt in your mouth pasta dish served with salmon and peas, which is tossed in a light lemon butter oil with fresh herbs.

Chef Dawn and Gambescia are always adding new dishes to the mix; if you don't see it on the menu yet, be sure to request "Pollo Fantastiche," a chicken paillard with figs, feta, and hazelnuts, served on creamy polenta with a red grape sauce.

We finished our meal with the best, foamiest cappuccino I've ever had, and the "Grilled Chocolate Amaretto Pound Cake." This dessert puts the most luscious brownies to shame. To top it off, scoops of the famous Via Vanti gelato, in raspberry and pomegranate, were added.

The 18 gelato flavors are legend in our area; half are standbys, and half change periodically. Richard Gere graciously told Gambescia that her gelato is superior to what is served at his restaurant. Other celebrity diners include rock star Rob Thomas; actress Lina Olin, and her husband, director Lasse Hallstrom.

Along with the outstanding food at Via Vanti, Gambescia is also known for her dedication to Mount Kisco, and for having a heart as big as her cuisine is delicious.

"I believe that all businesses have a responsibility to give back to their communities," she thoughtfully explains. "I'm a big supporter of Guiding Eyes For The Blind. I love dogs, and since I'm a Foodie, I see flavors everywhere I look," she said. "So I created a contest: If your dog were a flavor, what flavor would that be? We now have a wall of Dogs of the Month dressed in costumes. The $20 entrance fee for the contest goes to Guiding Eyes. And if you buy a gelato and donate 25 cents, we match it." This has provided a lot of fun for the community, and some great new gelato flavors inspired by the dogs. There will be a calendar available in September. Gambescia also works extensively with the Food Bank For Westchester.

Those not acquainted with the special events at Via Vanti have a treat in store for them. The wine tasting dinners spotlight different sections of Italy. The next will feature Umbria, known as "Italy's Green Heart." The dates are April 15 and April 18; the cost is $85 including wine, $55 without wine. There's also going to be a contest during April and May, with the prize a stay in an Italian castle. Via Vanti is also a participant in Hudson Valley Restaurant Week, which runs through March 28.

Local residents often thank Gambescia for all she contributes to the community. She says in reply, "I've always been nomadic, but now I feel so connected to Mount Kisco. I walk around and people know me; they are educated and appreciative here. They're more engaging on the intellectual and culinary level."

Asked why she chose the old train station as a home for her restaurant, her blue eyes sparkle as she recalls, "I just knew immediately. I love the history of the place; in fact, it's been declared a historic landmark. In practical terms, this made it difficult to make certain necessary changes. For example, it took three months for us to get approval to renovate the floor. But it was worth it; we've kept what was special about the old building, and added new touches that have turned it into a little bit of Italy right here in Mount Kisco. People can forget the stress of everyday life. Eating here is like taking a little vacation."

You can't come into the terminal to buy a train ticket anymore. Instead, you can be transported to a beautiful land of heavenly smells, friendly service, colorful décor and, most importantly, extraordinary food.  

Via Vanti is located at 2 Kirby Plz, Mount Kisco. The number is 914-666-6400 and its Web site is  www.viavanti.com.