Chef Anthony Accomando of Antoine McGuire's Oyster & Ale House in Haverstraw is right where he belongs. More than 100 years ago, his great grandparents on his mother's side came to Rockland County from Italy to work in the brick industry of Haverstraw and ice industry of Rockland Lake. They ended up being next-door neighbors in Haverstraw … and that's how his grandparents met. And so on and so on.
Both sides of the family have always loved to cook and have been involved locally with food in one way or another. His great grandparents and great uncle, toward the end of prohibition, had an unofficial "pub" in Haverstraw that was shut down at one point; his great uncle had an Italian deli and catering business in Haverstraw; his grandfather had a pizza shop and Italian restaurant called Anthony's Restaurant, on Broadway in Haverstraw; his mom Joanne has J&B Luncheonette, and his dad has Babe's Bar & Grill in West Haverstraw. What a legacy!
— How did you get your own start in the food industry?
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Food was always a central part of our family life at home. I remember watching my grandmother make sauce. I pretty much grew up in the business. I started washing dishes when I was 12, and always had a curiosity about what the cooks were doing. But during my teens I decided I didn't want to be in this crazy business, and ended up going to college at Purchase to study clarinet performance. Ironically, while I was at school I worked at restaurants and cooked all the time for my friends, so I never really escaped.
Toward the end of college I had a pretty serious car accident, and had to take a leave of absence from school. That was around the time my family opened Babe's. I had a bit of experience working at my mom's place and in other restaurants, but no formal training in the kitchen. As they got the restaurant going I was helping out between chefs and ended up running the kitchen. That's when I realized I wanted to keep cooking professionally.
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— How did you supplement what you learned on the job?
After a few years at Babe's it really started to take off and we were getting some really nice reviews. I decided to go to the French Culinary Institute in New York. I had a friend who had gone there and spoke very highly of it. And of course I knew who Jacques Pépin and Jacques Torres were, and a few others who teach there, but I loved that it's based on the classic European apprentice system. Most of the chefs teaching there came up through the apprentice system in France. It meant a lot to me to have that influence and it gave me a real strong backbone for all sorts of cooking. No matter what I cook I use the classic French technique I learned there … their appreciation of food is unrivaled … they inspired me to enjoy the process of cooking. I also did an internship at The Mark Restaurant.
— Are there any other chefs who have influenced you?
All the chefs at school, especially Rogers Powell, Henri Vaughan, and Sixto Alonso. After school I worked for Paul Bazzini in Ridgewood, NJ. He was a big influence. And Jean George is a huge hero of mine! I've never seen anyone cook with such clean flavor and in so many layers.
— What else have you done before opening Antoine McGuire's?
After I worked at Bazzini at 28 Oak Street I opened Adagio Bistro & Wine Bar in Pearl River. Then after a year I decided to do something outside the kitchen and ended up working as the Director of the Arts Alliance of Haverstraw, which I'm still doing. I actually added a culinary arts program for kids there and have done some other cooking classes in the community.
— How did Antoine McGuire's come about?
Really through the Arts Alliance. I became very involved in the community, and my partner Peter McGuire (who also leads a double life as an electrical contractor and New York City firefighter) was active in the same civic organizations and was always at the same events. We were the two young guys and got to know each other. He owned the building we are now in and it was vacant. He was interested in bringing in a restaurant and we started talking. It was going to be a few years down the road, and then it just happened. We had two different views of what it would be. I had the classic French training, and he envisioned an Irish pub. Antoine is what my family started calling me after culinary school because I was so into French cooking. So we became Antoine McGuire's!
— Are you happy doing what you do?
The kitchen does get up to about 120 degrees at times, but when you are doing what you love to do … a lot of the deterrents that people face in the restaurant business fade away. And it's been terrific that we've had so much support from the community. Plus, David Martinez and Paolo Feteira of Union Restaurant have really been supportive since we opened, as has Peter Kelly.
— Where do you get your inspiration for new creations?
For new menu items I love when I see a family dish that someone made and it has meaning for them, or something from humble beginnings. And restaurants play a big part, but unfortunately I don't get out to eat as often as I would like to. I'm always respectful of other people's dishes and am not a copier, but if I catch something that I really enjoy and it has a different spin, I'll take one element of the dish and create something else. One thing I created recently was our Deconstructed Lobster Roll, which is poached lobster meat on top of lightly toasted chunks of challah. I was inspired by a lobster dish I had at Peter Kelly's X2O and just took the lobster idea and made an entirely different dish.
— How do you source the food you cook with here?
I've been in the industry for a long time so I know now which purveyors I can trust for particular things, like specific cuts of meat. I do try to use local or regional sources that I know have quality products. And I don't flaunt it on the menu but I prefer organic, free-range products when possible. I'm actually starting an initiative with local farmers and using what they have that is in season.
— Do you still have time to cook at home?
A little bit. If I catch a Sunday at home, or we are closed for a holiday, I'll cook for the family. I still do enjoy it. I'll put together some crazy concoction of whatever is local and fresh, whatever I find. My girlfriend just picked up some herbs and we are starting a little potted herb garden just to have them on-hand. Home is my laboratory. A lot of what I do there ends up in dishes that find their way to the restaurant. And I love to entertain at home. At one point I had people over so often that I had service ready to go for about 35 people.
— Do you still play music?
I dabble here and there. For now it's a fun way for me to relax. We are actually starting a pretty eclectic live music series soon, once a month, probably on Thursday nights.
— When you eat out where do you like to go?
It's two extremes. I either like to go to low key, often ethnic places, which Haverstraw has a bounty of … like La Cascada, Ecuadorian food … or restaurants of the chefs I know and respect. Certainly I go to Peter Kelly's restaurants when I can.
— What would you tell someone who wants to become a chef?
Find a chef at a restaurant in your community who is willing to have you come in for a day, or maybe an internship. Actually get in the driver's seat, see what it feels like. Experience the stress and intensity of a dinner rush. Try it on for size. The day-to-day of it is not like what you see on TV. But it's a very rewarding world. Eventually professional training would speed things up if you decide on it as a career. We don't have the same apprentice system here that they have in Europe, where you might start working under a chef when you are in your teens and work your way up. But, there are amazing chefs who have never had any formal training, like David Martinez of Union. He has a complete set of skills that would rival anyone. I really enjoy having culinary conversations with him and am inspired by them.
— What tips do you have for someone who wants to learn how to cook for themselves or guests at home?
When it comes to creating something good, simplicity is the way to go. People tend to find elaborate recipes and try to over-impress, and really some of the best dishes are the simple ones. Find some good, local ingredients … that's half the battle right there … if it's good and local and fresh it's going to taste good even if you do very little to it other than a little seasoning or a nice, basic sauce. Just find a nice, simple recipe.
— How do you stay healthy when you are surrounded by food all the time?
When you cook professionally you just taste everything. And I don't eat the restaurant meals every day, but we do work hard to have healthy ingredients and portions. Also, my girlfriend, Angela Rivera, is a graduate of the Healthy Gourmet Institute and offers healthy culinary instruction and themed cooking parties for kids through her business "The Healthy Chef Lady" and is selling healthy baked goods and other products at local farmer's markets. So, she's a wonderful culinary influence and we always have a lot of healthy ingredients on hand at home.
— Do you use any cookbooks and are there any you would recommend?
People tend to overlook the resource books and that's what I turn to most often. Like On Food and Cooking. Because it tells you where the dish comes from, and how and why it's made. Some others are Larousse Gastronomique and Food Lover's Companion. And any step-by-step cookbook with lots of pictures. Always, any cookbook by Thomas Keller, who is so thorough about technique, and Jacques Pépin's Complete Techniques. A great read for anyone considering a life in the kitchen is Becoming a Chef.
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Anthony Accomando's Stout Brownies
In a double boiler, melt 12 oz. milk chocolate or chocolate chips with 1 c. butter.
In a separate bowl, mix together:
3/4 c. cocoa powder
1 c. confectioners sugar
1 c. flour
1 c. stout
4 eggs
1/2 tsp. salt
Stir in the melted chocolate and butter.
Coat a 9x12 baking pan with butter and pour in mixture.
Bake at 375 degrees for 35 minutes or until done.
