Fork Slope: A Review of Littleneck

Few things scream summer more to me than fresh shellfish and seafood. And with the still as popular as ever and continuing to steamroll in popularity, options are far from lacking.

is a small New England-style clam shack that opened in late October on Third Avenue, between Carroll and President streets, that has all the casual charm and genuine, perfectly prepared seafood.

The nautical interior (think a few buoys here, an oar there) is not over the top or a distraction. It’s just enough to create a comfortable setting where the food can shine. Despite being located among the industrial warehouses of Gowanus, Littleneck does indeed feel like a clam shack far away from the noisy streets of Brooklyn.

Some folks seem unfortunately put off by eating seafood within such close proximity to the , which is one of the As stated on Littleneck's website, their seafood is sourced from growers and producers who are committed to sustainable methods. They offer their “Scout’s Honor” that nothing comes from the canal. And besides, isn’t that ridiculous anyway? 

As the name might indicate, they serve clams at Littleneck. Find them in chowder ($7), on the half-shell ($1.50 each or a dozen for $12) or in the house specialty, a full belly Ipswich clam roll served with tartar sauce and shredded romaine lettuce for $16. Steamer clams are also offered with garlic, chilis and Narragansett beer ($14).

Also in the bivalve department, briny, creamy fresh oysters from the east and west coasts run $2 and $3 each respectively. Mussels from Prince Edward Island with Thai basil and curry are here as well for $13.

I found other menu items, including the daily specials, to be where the menu truly shines. A recent special of mackerel crudo with grapefruit and jalapeno emulsion was the perfect balance of acidity and heat to fish. And a soft shell crab special accompanied by charred long beans and garlic aioli was exceptional.

On the regular menu, the light, flakey pan-roasted skate wing with pomme puree, pea shoots and lemon oil ($17) is simple, clean and everything I had hoped it would be. The subtle taste of the skate is not lost in preparation or overpowered by any of the other flavors. It's comfort food without the requisite food coma afterwards.

There are also non-seafood items on the menu as well, including a burger (with fries $11) and glazed Polish bacon with tomato jam and homemade pickles ($9). 

Adding to the experience, the beer and wine menu features a nice variety of local drafts, beer in bottles and cans (Narragansett Lager tallboys for $3) and red, white and sparkling European wines by the glass or bottle. A standout beer, for me personally, was the Crabbie’s ginger beer from England. Something I have not found with ease.

There are however some challenges facing Littleneck. The prices are a bit high for some, and they do not accept credit cards, though there is an ATM located in back.

Finally, the owners are musicians with no prior restaurant experience, but you would never know given how long you might have to wait for a table. Be prepared during peak times to wait upwards of an hour and seating at the bar is limited. They will take your number and call when a table is available, but there isn’t much else in the immediate area to kill time. 

Despite any of those qualms, Littleneck delivers. In fact, walking back out into the street, you might be surprised, maybe just for a moment, about where you actually are.

Littleneck, 288 Third Avenue, (718) 522-1921, littleneckbrooklyn.com