Meet the Chef: Rino Letizia of Mediterraneo

Mediterraneo Chef/Owner Rino Letizia grew up in Messina, a city in northeast Sicily separated from mainland Italy by the narrow and shallow Messina Straight.

Following his family's arrival in America when he was 16-years-old, he soon found a job at Il Boschetto, an Italian restaurant in The Bronx. There, he was taught how to clean eggplants, open clams, peel potatoes and wash dishes—he stayed for 15 years and along the way, learned how to cook.

After leaving Il Boschetto, Letizia worked at some of the hottest spots in New York City. His first stop was Gino's Cafe in The Bronx, a former speakeasy owned by Domenic Broccoli that became a famous hangout for stars of stage, screen and sports including Al Pacino, Tony Randell, Jackie Mason and Dominic Chianese (Uncle Junior in the Sopranos). 

After a brief stint at Joe Nina's in The Bronx, Letizia joined Parkside Corona which, like Gino's Cafe, was a popular meeting spot for celebrities. There, he cooked for show business luminaries and athletes such as Robert DeNiro, Billy Joel, Joe Montenga, Drea De Matteo (Adriana La Cervain in the Sopranos), New York Jets legendary quarterback Joe Namath, Mets' broadcaster Ralph Kiner and New York Yankees ex-Manager Joe Torre. 

Next, Letizia worked for veteran comedian/actor Al Lewis at his Bella Gente restaurant on Bleeker Street in Greenwich Village. Lewis is best remembered for playing vampire Grandpa Munster on The Munsters television series.

Before leaving in 1995 to start Mediterraneo, which celebrated its 15th anniversary in September 2010, Letizia worked for three years at Guida's, a restaurant in Ossining that has since closed. 

The menu does not change very often at Mediterraneo, Letizia said. Five of the dishes offered on opening day 15 years ago have retained their popularity and are still on the menu. These dishes are:

• Cioppino. Scallops, filet of sole, shrimp and clams in a plum tomato sauce over linguine. ($26) 
• Fettuccine Mediterraneo. Spinach pasta with crabmeat in a pink sauce. ($18) 
• Gamberoni Bellavista. Broiled shrimp, topped with seasoned bread crumbs and served over cous cous. ($24) 
• Spaghetti Alla Carbonara. Bacon, onions, white wine, and a touch of cream. ($18)
• Tagliatelle All' Anatra. Braised duck ragu. ($18)

Two of the most popular entrees the restaurant serves, according to Letizia, are Salmone Grigliato (salmon with eggplant and roasted pepper), priced at $24 and Vitello Alla Sorrentina (veal scaloppine with eggplant, tomato, parmigiano and marsala wine sauce), priced at $25.

Letizia's personal favorite dish for dinner is Costata di Maiale, a pan seared double-cut pork chop prepared with sweet vinegar peppers in a balsamic reduction ($24). 

Home-made desserts include biscotti, Italian cheese cake, creme brulee and tiramisu. 

Although he says the menu can go two or three years without a change, Letizia points out, "The kitchen prepares risotto to a different recipe every day."

The changes, he says, may involve meat, fish, vegetables or sauces. 

His wife Laura handles the front of the house and along with host and manager Luigi Delvecchio, she often greets and seats arriving customers. Son Carlo helps out on weekends.

Letizia still knows how to draw celebrities to his restaurant. One who dropped by a few years ago after attending a screening at the Jacob Burns Film Center is a former owner of an eatery in Carmel, California. His name is Clint Eastwood.

Mediterraneo, located at 75 Cooley St., Pleasantville, NY, is open for lunch on Tuesday through Friday and for dinner on Tuesday through Sunday. It is closed on Monday. Private parties can be accommodated for up to 80 people. 914-773-1020. www.mediteraneony.com.